My question is this:  Will the resulting torqe and unforgiving nature of the lockers be too much for my current axles?  If so, is there anything out there that I can replace them with and still keep the shift-on-the-fly(there is a lot of snow here in Tahoe)?"

The setup you desire would be pushing the limits of your current axle assemblies. A lot depends on your usage of the Jeep as to if or when the axles may fail. I don't know that I could really justify recommending close to 4 grand in custom axle assemblies unless you actually had a failure. If one of the axles does fail you, and you want to upgrade to larger components, Dynatrac (http://www.dynatrac.com) can build a custom Dana 44 front axle for you without losing your shift on the fly ability.

My guess is that you have the factory Trac-Loc limited slip rear differential. Occassionally they will chatter during a turn. My advice would be to change the gear oil in the rear axle with the manufacturer's specified gear lubricant, and be absolutely sure to add the special Trac-Loc additive available from your dealer. This should solve the problem.

The NP207 was standard equipment on early Cherokees and some early Wranglers. It doesn't have the most sterling reputation, but with proper maintenance, it shouldn't give you much grief. I wouldn't run out and buy an NP231 to replace it until when and if it breaks.

The Tera-Low would be initially cheaper but would I be better off in the long run with the NV4500? I also plan to run 33" tires with either 4.11 or 4.56 in the axles. "

I think in the long run you'll be better off replacing your transmission with the NV4500. The T5 is pretty marginal even with the 258, replacing it with a very heavy duty transmission such as the NV4500 would eliminate a weak link and give you a lower crawl ratio.

If you complete all the modifications you have listed, the stock axles will have to go. Since the Atlas case has an extremely low range gear, coupled with a V8, the amount of torque sent to the axles could be 10 times greater than ever intended. You mentioned a desire to run 4.88 or lower gears, the lowest available for either axle is 4.56. If you want lower axle ratios than that, you'll have to swap both axles. Keep in mind that the lower the axle ratio, the "weaker" the gear sets are. This is due to fewer teeth on the pinion gear. For example, a typical Dana 30 front with 2.72 gears has 49 teeth on the ring gear and 18 on the pinion. A 4.56 gear set for the same axle has 41 teeth on the ring gear and 9 teeth on the pinion. In order to maintain durability while running low ratio gearsets, you have to upgrade to a heavier duty axle with larger gears. Either a Dana 60 in the rear and Dana 44 up front, or Ford 9" axles at both ends, or some combination of the two.

Changing the oil in the differentials is very easy. Put a drain pan underneath the differential, remove all the bolts from the differential cover, then gently pry the cover from the axle to allow the oil to drain out. To reinstall the cover, remove all traces of silicone from the cover and axle, then use a degreaser (acetone works very well) to completely remove any oil from the mating surfaces of the axle and the cover. Apply a bead of silicone to the cover and bolt it to the axle. Remove the fill plug in the cover to replace the oil, when the oil level reaches the fill plug, it's full and you're done.

You need an additive for your rear differential because of your Trac-Lok limited slip. Carefully check the back of the bottle of gear oil that you buy and be certain that it meets the Mopar specs. If not, purchase the additive from your Jeep dealer.

The factory Trac-Loc is a limited slip type differential. It's overall benefit off road is pretty marginal. It will help some initially, but the clutch packs tend to wear out very quickly. Considering the fact that you're purchasing a two wheel drive, ensuring that both rear wheels receive power in slippery situations could very easily make the difference in driving home or walking home. You may want to forego the factory option and consider a more reliable aftermarket limited slip like the Detroit Tru-Trac. It is a gear driven limited slip and isn't subject to the wear of a clutch type limited slip. The Tru-Trac will not exhibit any of the quirks of a locker on pavement, it won't be noticed until it's needed. If you want the full traction a locker provides, you could use an ARB air locker. The cost is about twice that of a Tru-Trac (around 800 dollars including installation), but with a push of a button, it will lock both rear wheels together. Push the button again, and you've got a standard "open" differential.

If you disregard the engines and transmissions of any CJ-7 (assuming they'll both be replaced) the differences are pretty minimal. Late model CJ-7's used an AMC model 20 axle with very weak two piece axle shafts. Once these axles are upgraded to aftermarket one piece units (about $350) the model 20 is just as reliable as Dana 44's found in early CJ-7's. Late model CJ-7's used the desirable Dana 300 transfer case, early CJ-7's used either a Dana 20 transfer case or the Quadratrac case, the best of the bunch being the Dana 300. None of the factory driveshafts are stout enough for continuous use with a high output 350. These can easily be replaced with aftermarket heavy duty driveshafts, but the limiting factor is still the U-joint size. How much power can the drivetrain handle? There's really no way to tell, it really depends on your driving habits. A stock 200 hp 350 can easily break expensive parts if driven aggressively. On the other hand, a well built 350 hp 350, driven conservatively, may not cause any damage. The important thing to remember is that even a stock 350 is sending much more horsepower and torque to the remainder of the drivetrain than the AMC engineers ever intended. For total reliability, every part of the drivetrain will need to be upgraded accordingly.

You guessed it. It's the torque converter slippage that's causing the RPM increase. Modern automatic transmissions are capable of "locking" the torque converter to eliminate the slip at cruising speeds. Older automatics don't have this capability, which explains why there was a big difference in mileage numbers between manual trannies and autos in older vehicles.

I don't normally suggest that anyone attempt to convert their two wheel drive to four wheel drive. It's simply much easier and usually far less expensive to sell your current vehicle and buy a similar 4wd. However, if you decide to attempt the conversion, there's no question that the easiest parts to use would be from another similar Comanche/Cherokee. You'll need a front axle with a ratio that matches the rear, an NP231 transfer case with a 21 spline input shaft, and another AX-5 transmission from a 4 cylinder/four wheel drive Cherokee or Comanche. Your existing transmission could be rebuilt to accept a transfer case, but it will likely be cheaper and easier to sell your two wheel drive transmission and buy another from a four wheel drive. You're rear driveshaft could be shortened and reused, but you will need to purchase a complete front driveshaft while you're shopping for the rest of the drivetrain parts.

In my opinion, the Trac-Loc option is a waste for anyone that regularly ventures off road. The problem with the Trac-Loc is exactly as you described, it doesn't work. It's effectiveness diminishes every time your Jeep is driven, the clutches simply wear out. Upgrading to an air locker, or any other mechanical locker would be a worthy upgrade that will greatly enhance off road performance.

The front axle in your Jeep is a full time unit. In other words, if it had hubs, they would be constantly in the "locked" position. When you try and turn the front driveshaft by hand, you're trying to turn the front wheels as well.

The rear end may be the source of the noise. The fact that it gets louder in 4th or 5th gear (i.e. higher speeds) would suggest bad bearings in the rear end. Was the rear end rebuilt before installation or was it a salvaged part? Swapping in a different rear axle will not have anything to do with losing 5th gear though. Obviously, you're transmission is failing, and it is more likely the culprit.

I'd shoot for the 12,000 mile used transmission. It will likely be much cheaper than rebuilding your current transmission, and less downtime. I wouldn't worry about the T-case yet, I'd bet the noise is gone after you replace the transmission. If it's not, then you can tear into the transfer case.

The "bonus gear" you've noticed is actually the electronically controlled torque converter locking and unlocking. The torque converter essentially replaces the clutch in a manual transmission, the converter slips to allow the transmission to shift. Older automatic transmissions "slipped" all the time. The extra "shift" you're noticing is the converter switching from the normal "slip" to "locked", generally about a 300 rpm drop. If you'll recall, there used to be large differences in MPG numbers for manual transmissions versus comparable autos. Since virtually all newer automatic transmissions can lock the torque converter to eliminate slippage, mileage numbers with autos have nearly matched that of manuals.

Leon Rosser Jeep (http://www.thinkjeep.com) has a hard top that you can use with your factory half doors.

Thankfully, the vacuum disconnect system is gone. The plastic lines were either ripped out by branches or rocks, or simply became brittle and broke. Since there isn't any significant force being applied to the front diff in 2WD, the extra wear on the gears is negligible.

Since the XJ is a unibody vehicle, I wouldn't expect to ever see any body stiffening components. Besides, a little body tweak can be beneficial off-road.

Your transmission is a T150, transfer case a Dana 20, your rear axle is an AMC Model 20, and the front axle a Dana 30. Considering your intended use for your Jeep, there really isn't any need to go swapping very expensive drivetrain parts. The only inherent weakness is the two piece axleshafts that originally were installed in the rear axle. Considering the 20+ years your Jeep has been on the road, hopefully someone has already upgraded them to one piece units. If not, the conversion will run about $350 bucks. To check whether the axles have been upgraded, simply remove one of the rear tires. If there is a large nut on the end of the axle shaft, you still have the two piece units.

What I really need to know is are the the stock axles strong enough?? I need to regear to 4.56 and would like to add ARB's. But do I do this to stock axles or should I spend the money more wisely on a Dana 44. I drive about 98% on road for now, but once geared right I plan on 50/50 +/-. I dont want to waste money on stock axles that wont last very long. Thanks, Ray."

As long as you intend to keep running the 4.0L engine, the stock axles should hold up fine.

The problem is with your transfer case, not the front axle. Take it to your local 4x4 shop for a proper diagnosis, but it should be a fairly inexpensive fix.

Is this a good motor, and what are the major break-downs? What is parts availibilty like?"

About the only thing I know about your diesel is that it was a Renault design. With that in mind, I'd say performance parts are probably non-existent, and parts availability pretty scarce outside of dealerships.

The T-5 uses ATF, most likely the grinding will stop after you switch back to the lighter oil. If not, it's time for a rebuild.

I wouldn't even consider the swap to a diesel. Jeep used a Renault built diesel engine in the mid 80's in the Cherokee's, but locating one of these engines and installing it would far outweigh any cost benefit of the diesel fuel. Rebuild your 4.0, it will be much simpler and less expensive, even in the long run.

A 258 straight six would be the most economical and easy swap. You can use all factory parts for the conversion. A swap to a V8 would require a stronger transmission.

Your four cylinder is a GM engine, the bellhousing will not work with the AMC six. You'll need a bellhousing from a 258/T5 combo for use with your T4 trans. You'll also need the factory engine mounts and radiator.

The T-19 did have a synchro first with a 5.11 ratio, a significant improvement over the 4.03 first gear in your T-5. As you already know, your T-5 is marginal with your 258, transmission failure with the T-19 would be very unlikely. Your bellhousing is not a straight match to the T-19. You need a bellhousing from a 258/T-176 or T-150 combination. You'll also need a special pilot bearing available from Advance Adapters, and a new clutch. The transfer case adapter is costly due to the mismatched output of the T-19 and input of the Dana 300, it will set you back about $500.

An AMC V8 will physically bolt up to your Peugeot 5 speed, but I really don't recommend doing it. If you want a V8, plan on using a different transmission, the Peugeot is not up to the task. Probably the best modification for your 258 is the Mopar EFI kit. The kit costs about $2000, but that's much less than you'd spend on a new V8 and transmission. Power will come up dramatically with the kit, expect about a 50 horse increase. The best part of the kit is probably the fact that you can drop kick your Carter carb, you'll never have to fiddle with it again. Obviously driveability is another huge benefit of the EFI kit.

I'd use the Atlas case. The rear driveshaft length will be critical in your TJ, particularly if you want to remove the crossmember spacers. The Atlas is a couple inches shorter overall allowing a longer driveshaft than the 241. The Atlas also benefits from a gear drive design-no chain related grief. The only downside I could see is the 3.5:1 low versus the aftermarket 4:1 gearsets available for the 241. However, if you use an NV4500 with a 6.34 first gear, 3.5:1 Atlas case, and 4.56 gearsets in the axles, you still end up with a plenty low final drive ratio of 101:1.

All you need is the OEM T98 transmission and four cylinder bellhousing (your T90 bellhousing will not fit the T98). Unfortunately, finding one is much easier said than done. You might try an add in our classifieds. The T98 is about 3" longer than the T90, new driveshafts will be necessary.

I'd suggest an aftermarket dual plane manifold, stock compression pistons, a mild performance cam (with matching valve springs) such as the Edelbrock Performer or the 252H or 260H series cams from Competition Cams, and dual exhaust. This should wake up your 304 at higher rev's (3000+), without any loss in low end torque.

It's possible that your radiator is clogged to the point that it cannot cool effectively. A professional cleaning may be a good idea regardless and is fairly inexpensive. The factory temp gauge on CJ's is vague at best, you might also consider installing an aftermarket temp gauge to find out how hot your engine really is.

Economical? Nope. Smart? Probably not. If you really love your YJ and have no plans to sell it than it's not so bad to drop the bucks for a V8. Be sure to check local emissions laws before you start the project though. If you intend to install a stock or only mildly modified V8, then all you need to replace is your transmission, your transfer case and axles will be fine.

The trick with installing any of the transmissions you mentioned isn't adapting it to the engine, it's mounting the transfer case to the back of one. It can and has been done with the Richmond transmissions, but the cost of an NV4500 would likely be less. The Richmond six speed itself would cost more than a complete NV4500 with adapters and it's 4:1 first is not even close to the 5.61 or 6.34 1st of the NV4500. New Venture will be producing a 6 speed very soon and it should prove to be much easier and less expensive than the Richmond.

If the fluid level in the transmission is correct then it's probably time to take your Jeep to a trans shop for a rebuild.

You're correct about the problems of installing a locker in a YJ front end. Unfortunately, there isn't any easy way to convert this axle to a manual hub setup, doing so would require completely rebuilding the axle using custom components. Installing an air locker is the way to go.

Unfortunately the Wrangler and Cherokee front axles cannot easily be converted for use with manual hubs. The modifications are extensive and best left to a custom axle shop. Since the Wrangler/Cherokee front axle uses an "open" (i.e. no limited slip device or locker) type differential, the front driveshaft is not directly driven. The front driveshaft may still turn, but "slip" is allowed via the disconnected passenger side axle. The front driveshaft would only be directly driven if a locker was installed in the front axle. Since an air locker can essentially be turned on or off, you could avoid the nuisance and wear of the front driveshaft constantly being driven.

My book says the stock compression ratio was 8:1. This may have changed depending on the pistons used in the rebuild, head gasket thickness, and whether or not any material was removed from the head or block to correct for any warped condition.

If you eliminate modifications to the engine and the gearing behind it, you eliminate the ability to produce more torque. You'll either have to make modifications to the engine to produce more of it, or swap to lower gearsets to take better advantage of the torque the engine does produce.

Fifty horsepower would be a huge increase for your 4.0L. The only way to gain that kind of power without rebuilding the engine would be with an aftermarket supercharger, and that's not necessarily simple or cheap. You might look at replacing the axle gears with a lower ratio set to make up for the larger tires rather than trying to increase the power of the engine to overcome the too tall gearing.

The 304 will bolt up to your Peugeot transmission, but I wouldn't expect it to last more than a few months. You'll need to use a more sturdy transmission. When you buy the 304, be sure to buy one with a manual transmission flywheel still attached. Not only are you getting the flywheel you need, but it tells you the crankshaft is drilled for a pilot bearing, some car V8's with auto transmissions weren't. Contact Advance Adapters for your motor mounts.

The TF904 was used on 4 cylinder CJ's and early 2.8 V6 XJ's. The TF999 was used on both six and eight cylinder CJ's. The 999 and 904 shared the same case, distinguishing between the two without knowing the transmission's origin may be difficult. The only external difference I know of is the 999 used a larger torque converter. The 999 also had a lower first gear than the 904. The TF727 and TH400 transmissions were both used with the Dana 20 transfer case, the TH400 was also used with the Borg-Warner Quadra-Trac transfer case, neither were ever used with the Jeep version of the Dana 300. Installing either would require a transfer case adapter.

Look for a Torqueflite 999 out of any six cylinder equipped '80 up CJ. It was used with the Dana 300 case and would be the easiest swap. You might also consider a floor shifter for the new auto rather than trying to hook up the factory column shift linkage.

I don't know of any CA legal aftermarket carbs, but Turbo City (www.turbocity.com) can set you up with a CA legal EFI system.

I am waiting to see if it is still available, but I am wondering if this will bolt up to my Jeep or will there be any modification ? Can you shed some light?"

I replaced a Peugeot tranny with an AX-15 almost two years ago and wrote an article on the conversion. It can be seen at http://www.dirtroad.com/tranny.htm. The only potential problem I can see with your '87 is that it may be equipped with the NP207 transfer case. If there isn't a 23 spline input shaft available for the 207, you'll have to swap the case for a later model NP231.

Competition Cams lists three different cams and related valve train parts for your 225. A quick call to Summit Racing (www.summitracing.com) and you should be able to locate an intake without difficulty. Considering the performance parts available for the 225, you're better off trying to squeeze some more power out of it than spending the money on another complete V6 and the necessary swap parts to make it fit.

The Tru-Trac is a gear type limited slip and does not use clutches like the factory Trac-Loc. The performance of each when new is more or less equal. The Trac-Loc's performance will quickly diminish as the clutches wear, making the Tru-Trac a better choice in the long term. As for the installation, you will have to remove the gears and reset them. This isn't impossible for the backyard mechanic, but I don't recommend it either. Most shops charge less than $200 for a professional installation. Considering the work involved, that's a bargain.

I must admit it's not often I get a question regarding the installation of a smaller than stock engine. The straight 6 would probably fit, but the hassle of installing it would far outweigh what little money you'd save. You might be able to purchase a new bellhousing (around $350) to adapt the engine to your current transmission. If not, you'll have to use the Chevy bellhousing and transmission that the engine was originally equipped with and adapt that combo to your transfer case. With the longer straight 6 and transmission swap, you'll probably need to relocate the transfer case and have new driveshafts custom made. You'll also need a new exhaust and you'll be completely on your own as far as fabricating motor mounts. I think the best bet is to spare yourself a lot of headaches, sell the 292, and use the cash toward a 304 rebuild.

Your '82 has an AMC Model 20 rear and Dana 30 front axle. The Model 20 originally had a failure prone two piece axle assembly. If your Jeep hasn't already been upgraded to one piece axle shafts, you should do so before installing the lockers.

The easiest way to determine your gear ratio is to check the tag that's bolted to the front differential cover. On the tag you should see some numbering such as 3.54 or 3.73, either of those numbers would indicate the stock axle ratio. To verify this (your gears could've been changed) jack up the rear axle and support it with jack stands. With the transmission in neutral, rotate the rear driveshaft by hand. Count the number of driveshaft revolutions required for one revolution of the tire. If the driveshaft turns approximately 3 1/2 times, you have a 3.54 ratio. It's helpful to use a grease pencil or chalk to make a reference point on both the tire and driveshaft.

I think there are tons of shops with talented mechanics capable of a Jeep V8 conversion. The problem is with rates of $50 or more per hour on a job that takes on average about 40 hours to complete, very few Jeep owners are willing to pay someone else for the work. I'd wager 99% of Jeep engine swaps are done in the owners garage.

A V8 swap in an early explorer/ranger can be done relatively easily. Advance Adapters and probably James Duff can set you up with the necessary swap parts.

You could use the Chevy engine, trans, and transfer case, but not the Chevy axles. They'll stick out way too far. I'd suggest popping for the Dana 300 adapter anyway. If you kept the stock transfer case, you could leave it in it's existing location and totally avoid shift linkage bending and having custom driveshafts built. The yokes on the Chevy transfer case and the Jeep axles won't match either. If you can't find the right yoke for the transfer case you may have to run two different size U-joints on the same driveshaft to get the whole thing to work. That driveshaft will drive you nuts with vibration not to mention possible damage to the case and axle.

Assuming the carb overhaul was done properly, you might want to check fuel pressure. You may have a clogged filter or weak pump.

I'm trying to wire the ignition circuit and am questioning how to wire the new HEI distributor?"

The Chevy HEI distributor is super easy to hook up. Take the old "+" coil wire and hook it up to the "BAT" terminal on the distributor (it's the terminal closest to the firewall, the other is for the tach). There is another plug that originates from the ignition module inside the distributor that also plugs into the cap, it only goes in one way. That's all there is to it.

There is no need to go to the extreme of swapping bodies to install a V8. A small block chevy (and any other small block for that matter) will fit in a CJ-7 without problems. If your Jeep originally had a GM 151 four cylinder engine, then the chevy V8 will bolt directly to the 904 transmission. However, if you want the 904 to last, you should keep engine modifications to a bare minimum. If you originally had a 6 cylinder, then you will need to purchase an adapter plate for your 999 transmission. Neither of these swaps would require relocating the transfer case; bending it's linkage won't be necessary.

I wouldn't even mess with the Dodge 340 when there are so many easily swappable AMC's out there. Your 258 has the same bellhousing pattern as the AMC V8's. You'll need new motor mounts and a fan shroud, and possibly a new radiator depending on the size/output of the engine you're using. The 390's were in '68-70 AMC Ambassadors, Javelin's, and the AMX, but any of the AMC V8's (290-401) are bolt-ins.

The easy fixes are to retard the timing a degree or two, or simply run 91 or 92 octane gas. Your Jeep is also equipped with a knock sensor that is supposed to automatically retard the timing in the event the engine starts "pinging". You'll need to take your Jeep to the dealer or obtain a good manual to determine whether the sensor is still functioning properly.

Unfortunately, installing a reliable 5 speed is not cheap in a CJ. The only one to seriously consider in your application would be the NV4500. The T5 and newer YJ AX-5's are much too small for a V8. The AX-15 from a 4.0 YJ should work, but if you're going to go through the expense and labor of a transmission swap you might as well go with the plenty strong NV4500. The conversion will be a little over $2000 including the transmission.

The Aisin AX-5 is not a real stout transmission, but normally it's fine with the 4 cylinder. I don't think your friends exact problem is by any means common, but it's not hard to believe either. If I had to guess I'd say it's a shifter fork, (i.e. replace the shifter). It should still be taken to a transmission shop if your friend isn't comfortable messing with it. Be leary of a shop that says it needs a total overhaul though, check several shops before letting them tear into the Jeep. Once they've got the transmission pulled, you're at their mercy.

I'd guess (I haven't done it) the conversion would be a bolt on as long as the donor vehicle used a Dana 35 and not a 44. You would probably need the donor's axle shafts as well. If you have the factory ABS, I'm not sure if the new discs would be compatible. Contact Stainless Steel Brakes Corp (800-448-7722). They manufacture bolt-on disc brake kits and should be able to shed some more light on both the conversion and any ABS conflicts.

The biggest engine Jeep ever used with the 904 was the 2.8 V6 in early cherokees. I'm afraid your 360 would eat up the 904 pronto. You could use an AMC TH400, or even adapt an overdrive GM TH700R4 to your AMC engine and transfer case.

If your Carter still won't run right after a rebuild, the best swap may be to a simple aftermarket throttle body type injection setup. It won't cost much more than a new carb and it will solve your induction problems for good. As a band-aid in the meantime, you should be able to stop your engine run on by using high octane gas (assuming your ignition timing is correct).

Contact Summit Racing (www.summitracing.com) or Clifford Performance for performance pistons and valves.

For clearance and other general rebuild related specs, get your hands on the "Mopar Jeep Engines" book. It should be available at your Jeep dealer (PN 5249586) for 25 bucks. If you have problems finding it locally, you can order it from Leon Rosser Jeep (www.thinkjeep.com).

I plan to keep the 225 V6, so will I be able to keep the bell housing?"

You can keep your existing transmission and transfer case and add a Saturn Overdrive. The overdrive unit is essentially a two speed transmission. It bolts on to the back of the case through the inspection cover, it is fully synchronized, and it provides a 25% overdrive when engaged. This unit will give you the option of 6 forward gears and 2 reverse. The overdrive unit does not affect the driveshafts, so no modifications would be needed to add the unit, it's simply a bolt on. Advance Adapters sells the overdrive for about a grand, much less than you'd spend on a trans and case swap, not to mention a whole lot less labor.

Your existing transmission will not hold up with a 350. Even a stock 350 produces twice the torque of your 4 cylinder. There is no need to install a lift kit or any other suspension modifications in order to install the V8.

The pros are pretty obvious, you'll have tons of power. The list of cons is unfortunately much longer. The biggest deterrent to an engine swap as I see it is the cost. Expect cost to be a minimum of $2000 for a used engine and transmission and all the necessary adapters and miscellaneous parts to hook it up. Unless you're really cutting corners, the total cost will likely be $3000 plus. Don't get me wrong, if you can afford it, it's worth it. It's not always practical though. Check out Advance Adapters (www.advanceadapters.com) and JB Conversions (www.ng.netgate.net/~tc/jbconversions) for more info.

The T86 wasn't the most stout transmission Jeep ever used, but I don't think it would be failure prone with a V6. Unless you just really wanted a "granny low" first gear transmission, I'd suggest saving yourself a ton of money and sleepless nights and keep your T86. The rest of your drivetrain should hold up well too. The stock axles aren't the most stout setup, but the cost of custom built units would probably far exceed the actual benefit. In my opinion you've got a very nice/practical setup for "moderate" off-road use.

I don't know of any drop in replacement radiator for your Jeep, probably you're best bet is to have your local radiator shop custom build one.

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