You're wise to start thinking of these things before your purchase. There are several things you can look for in a used CJ that can save you a large sum of money down the road.  Since you've stated you're in the market for a mid 80's CJ-7, you've eliminated the possibility of obtaining a Jeep with a V8 that was installed at the factory.  If you want to skip all the labor, you may want to consider an earlier CJ-7 with a factory 304. If you still want a late model CJ-7, shop for one with the right transmission. The stoutest tranny used in any of the late CJ's was the T-176 four speed. Unlike it's SR4/T4/T5 counterparts, the T-176 is dependable when bolted to a V8. In fact it was used with 304's in the last years of V8 CJ's, in later years it was used exclusively with the 258. Buying a CJ with one of these trannies will save you the expense and hassle of a tranny swap later on. The 258 shares the same bellhousing pattern with all AMC V8's. This means you can yank the six and install a 401 using factory motor mounts and not have to purchase a single adapter.  The T-176 tranny was also used in Ford trucks. The appropriate Ford bellhousing would bolt directly to the T-176 and could be used to install a 289/302/351W and you'd only need to purchase the conversion motor mounts. For more info on other possibilities contact Advance Adapters.

None without a new bellhousing. There are aftermarket bellhousings available for both Ford and Chevy engines.

It can be done, but your friend who said it wouldn't be worth it may be closer to correct. It depends on how much money you're willing to spend to complete the conversion. You could very easily (and probably will) spend over $3K on the conversion using rebuilt parts. If you decide you want to do it, the conversion parts are available through Advance Adapters. If it's any consellation, you can keep your existing tranny crossmember.

Take a look at www.dirtroad.com/tranny.htm. I did this conversion more than two years ago in an '89 YJ, the owner is very happy with the results and hasn't had any problems with the new transmission. Verify that you have the NP231 transfer case before starting the conversion, some details may change if you're using the NP207.

Keep your eyes open for a Jeep T-18 four speed tranny, they were optional in 70's Jeeps. It will offer a much lower first gear ratio (4.03:1) than your T-150 (2.99:1) and bolt directly to your Dana 20 transfer case without modification. You will need a new clutch assembly, pilot bushing, factory transmission mount, and the original T-18 bellhousing. The T-18 is about 2.5" longer than the T-150 so driveshaft mods will be required.

Check out "Meet the 1999 WJ" for my review on the new WJ.

The 4.2 I6 will bolt directly to your T4 bellhousing without modification. The 4.0L requires a flywheel sensor that mounts to the bellhousing in order for the engine to operate properly. If you want to run the 4.0L, you'll need a conversion bellhousing from Advance Adapters. You'll need to replace your existing engine mounts with those from a 4.2L CJ.

The 4.0L does just barely fit. In fact, Jeep had to make some modifications to the firewall to squeeze it in. Keep in mind that a V8 is two cylinders shorter in length than an 4.0L, so a 350 will fit. I believe there are some oil pan/front axle clearance problems on XJ's with a V8 swap that would make a suspension lift a necessity. What would all this cost? Tons. I'd guess around 8000 dollars including the labor. You might consider a supercharger (www.rimmerenginc.com) for a whole lot less money and labor to increase the horsepower of your 4.0L. If you still want a V8, you might consider selling your XJ and adding the 8000 dollar conversion cost to buy a V8 Grand Cherokee.

The swap is really not that tough. Your auto tranny should hold up fine as long as you use a stock 350. Advance Adapters (www.advanceadapters.com) can supply you with all the necessary adapters to mate your transmission as well as new motor mounts for the V8. You're stock radiator should keep the new engine cool enough as long as you retain the fan shroud. The wiring is a snap, use your old sending units on the new V8 to ensure accuracy of your gauges and take your old positive coil lead and plug it into the HEI distributor. Use your stock alternator on the new engine and your done. Since you're looking at buying a new engine either way, you might as well put in something you'll be happy with.

If you don't want or need the extra power from the 6-cylinder, there's no need to avoid the 4-banger. The two engines are very similar in design and both are very reliable.

Sorry, I get tons of questions in per day. If I haven't answered, I apologize. I simply don't have enough time to answer all of them.

There is a "World Class" T-5 transmission that was used in 5.0L Mustangs and some Camaros. You shouldn't have any problem locating one at a salvage yard. It is not a direct replacement for your Jeep T-5. You will require a new bellhousing to mate your 4 cylinder and a transfer case adapter assembly to mate your Dana 300 transfer case. In order to use the transfer case adapter, you will have to swap the overdrive gear sets and shift rails in the WC transmission. Again, Advance Adapters can set you up with all the parts you'll need. Overall length of the new assembly will most likely be longer than stock, which would require custom front and rear driveshafts. The only reason I'm not a big fan of this swap is the gear ratios of the WC T5. This transmission is definitely designed for street use with a first gear ratio near 3:1, versus the stock T5 ratio of 4:1.

If you want to keep your Wagoneer, then rebuild the 401. The biggest benefit of rebuilding your existing engine versus a GM V8 swap is the cost and labor savings. You'd need to purchase a complete 350, fabricate some motor mounts, and install a new transmission. Secondly, there's nothing wrong with the 401! I certainly wouldn't scrap it in favor of a 350. For half the cost of a stock 350 swap, you could perform a high quality rebuild on your 401. You'd end up with a very torquey engine, and save yourself a lot of time, money, and headaches.

Hooker and Advance Adapters sell "fenderwell exit" headers that will fit your conversion. These headers exit outside the frame rails and will require a little fender trimming to fit. Unfortunately, neither manufacturer offers the headers in stainless steel, but you can order them chrome plated. I don't know of any full length headers that exit within the frame rails.

The only transmissions that will interchange with absolutely no modifications are the T4/SR4 four speeds. These are identical in strength and size in relation to your 5 speed, but they don't have an overdrive gear. I assume you're looking for a more reliable transmission than your T5. A 4 speed T-176 that was optional in 80's CJ's with the 258 is the easiest upgrade. you'll need a new clutch, and the T-176 tranny with the OEM bellhousing. The only "modification" you'll have to make is to have new driveshafts made. The T-176 is a few inches shorter than the T5.

You have the option of using virtually any truck or Jeep 4 speed between your 350/Dana 20 combo. However, none of them will mate both the engine and transfer case without an adapter. For instance, a Jeep T-18 will fit your transfer case, but not the engine, a Chevy NP435 will fit the engine with a stock Chevy bellhousing, but not the transfer case. A late T-176 could probably be mated to your current bellhousing adapter, but again, it won't fit your transfer case. You can either rebuild your T-150, or be prepared to shell out some dough to adapt your choice of 4 or 5 speed.

What you've heard about the 80's T5 transmissions is true, they will not withstand V8 power. The 258 I-6 that was normally used ahead of the T5 is already pushing the tranny to it's limits.

Unfortunately Jeep never used a 5 speed in CJ's that was capable of handling a V8. The YJ/TJ AX-15 5 speed is a fairly solid transmission and could be matched with very little difficulty to your 304 and a Dana 300. The AX-15 offers a 3.83 first gear ratio (versus your T-150's 2.99 1st gear) as well as a .79 overdrive fifth.

If you want a very low first gear, than look for a Dodge NV4500 that is used in late model 3/4 ton trucks. This is a more expensive option, but you'll be getting a very reliable transmission with a 5.61 1st gear ratio and a .73 fifth. The Dodge version of the NV4500 will bolt up to a Dana 300 without adapters, but will require a special bellhousing available from Advance Adapters to mate your 304.

If you decide you can live without an overdrive, than a T-176 4 speed transmission out of a late model CJ would be an easy bolt in if coupled with a Dana 300. The T-176 offers a 4.07 1st gear. The T-176 was used with what few 304 powered 80's CJ's that were built, and was also an option with 258 engines.

If you go with a V6 swap, you have the option of retaining your existing 904 transmission. With a V8 swap, the 904 would need to be replaced. A V8 is a very tight squeeze into a Cherokee, a V6 would be a more practical and cost effective solution to gain some go-go.

Two V6's that are easily installed in your Cherokee are the GM 2.8L and 4.3L. The 2.8L was a factory option for your '84 and could be installed using OEM engine mounts. Although the 2.8 was fairly anemic, there are plenty of performance parts available that could be included in a rebuild to greatly increase the power over the factory ratings. The 4.3L engines were almost always fuel injected which would add quite a bit of extra labor and cost to the conversion. However, if you're interested in updating to EFI, this would be the engine of choice. The 4.3L will require a pricey adapter to mate your transmission, as well as custom engine mounts, both of which are available from Advance Adapters.

The cost of the conversion largely depends on the initial cost of purchasing the replacement V6, and whether you intend to rebuild it prior to installation. Assuming either engine was rebuilt, and you performed all the labor, I'd estimate the 2.8 V6 close to $1500 and the 4.3 around $2500. Again, these are estimates, you'll need to do a little research and make some phone calls to determine the exact cost.

Two hundred bucks? What a steal! Your YJ was originally equipped with a 4.2/258 engine. Any 258 out of another AMC will be an easy swap, the motor mount location and bellhousing pattern will be the same. By the way, if you run across any more $200 Jeeps, let us know!

I don't have any substantiated information as to whether the Jacobs ignition improves performance or not. I have heard a lot of positive reviews from owners of the system though, mostly relating to a much smoother running engine and easier starting.

As the price tag suggests, the Mopar multi-point injection is the cream of the crop in retrofit EFI kits for the 258. The other EFI kits use a TBI setup. While this is much cheaper, the only thing it really does is relieve you of a troublesome carburetor. Since the fuel is still being delivered at the same location, the TBI setup really doesn't improve fuel distribution that much. The air/fuel mixture still has a long way to go to get to the #1 and #6 cylinders. The Mopar kit uses six injectors located over each intake port to insure that each cylinder receives the optimum mix.

The Mopar kit incorporates an oxygen sensor in the exhaust pipe which (as the name suggests) measures the amount of oxygen in the exhaust gases. This information is relayed back to the computer and is then used to adjust the injector dwell time to either enrich or lean the air/fuel mixture. The benefit is that the engine (after it is warmed up) is constantly striving to run at or very close to the perfect 14.7:1 air/fuel ratio for optimum efficiency, power, and minimum pollutants regardless of altitude or attitude. This is referred to as a "closed loop" system. Most of the TBI kits are "open loop" and do not use any type of oxygen sensor. Consequently the computer doesn't know or care whether the air/fuel ratio is to rich or lean. Some of the TBI kits can be set up with an oxygen sensor at an added cost.

Yet another benefit of the Mopar kit is the inclusion of ignition timing as an integral part of engine management. Many of the TBI kits use the stock ignition and distributor. While this is obviously adequate, it is greatly improved with the Mopar kit, in terms of both performance and reliability. For instance, with the Mopar kit, ignition timing will automatically be advanced (and the air/fuel mixture enriched similar to a choke on a carburetor) when the engine is cold. This allows for much easier cold starts and much improved cold engine operation. During normal operating temperatures, the Mopar kit will keep the ignition advanced as much as possible for optimal performance, while still avoiding detonation or "pinging". It does this through the use of a knock sensor that is attached directly to the engine block.

Last, but certainly not least, you have to consider what will happen when any of these EFI systems have problems. The Mopar injection uses all Jeep parts and can easily be serviced at any Jeep dealership. Don't even think about taking your Jeep to the dealer for any engine driveability problems with any other aftermarket EFI system installed, they will refuse to work on it. Most of the TBI kits use GM components, but the Chevy dealer isn't going to touch it either. You'd then be stuck with trying to find someone knowledgeable in EFI troubleshooting at a local garage. This may or may not be a problem, depending on where you live and how many shops you have to choose from. Worse yet, what happens if you buy one of the Holley systems? If a part goes bad, you're not going to be able to pick it up from the local dealer or parts store, you're going to have to order it from a speed shop!

To sum it up, the Mopar system offers total engine management with worry free serviceability. Other systems, as I said earlier, are simply just good ways to dump the Carter carburetor. For around $600 dollars more, I think the Mopar system is worth the extra money.

I replaced the GM built four cylinder engine with a 350 in my scrambler and kept the T4 transmission. I knew it wouldn't last very long, but since the 350 was an easy bolt in, I figured I'd replace the transmission at a later date. That "later date" was about 6 months later, and I was very easy on the throttle. Third gear is now missing several teeth.

For motor mounts, you should be able to use factory pieces from a late CJ-7 with a 304. All AMC V8's had the same motor mount location and bellhousing pattern.

My second question is in regards to doing a Right Hand Drive conversion, as we are required to do with any vehicle not regarded as antique. Was there a R.H.D. market for AMC in the 1980's and where may I source some of these parts?"

The only problem with a V8 swap is your T5 transmission, the 258 is already pushing your tranny to it's limits. Installing a V8 would be delivering it a death sentence. Since reliability is a major concern, then either rebuild your 258, or swap to a V8 and a new transmission. Another option that should increase fuel efficiency dramatically would be to install the Mopar multi-point EFI kit to your 258. This essentially upgrades your old 258 to the newer 4.0L standard. The kit sells for around $1800, but has been advertised as low as $1500, it's available through any Jeep/Chrysler dealership.

As for your RHD parts, check with Leon Rosser Jeep (www.thinkjeep.com). They stock parts for postal Jeeps which were all right hand drive. You should be able to retrofit the postal parts very easily.

Would the T-176 hold up to a 350? Is the T-176 easily found? Are there any other mods I may have to do to complete this swap?"

The T-176 is a good choice, it will hold up well with a relatively stock 350. The T-176 was used as an option in 80's CJ's with the 258 and should be fairly easy to locate. The T-176 will bolt up to your transfer case without modification, but you'll need a bellhousing from Advance Adapters to mate it to the 350. The transmission lengths are slightly different, but carefully positioning the engine should allow you to avoid driveshaft modifications. You'll also need motor mounts from AA, and a larger radiator.

Go with the newer EFI 4.0L rather than try and retrofit a carbureted 4.2L. The 4.0L produces more power and has much better driveability characteristics both on and off road. Whether you go with the 4.0L or 258, you'll need to swap transmissions. Your existing AX-5 transmission isn't up to the task of transferring the torque of a 6 cylinder. Using the factory AX-15 from a 4.0L YJ would be the easiest and most economical swap regardless of which engine you choose. You'll need to replace the 21 spline input gear of your transfer case with a stronger 23 spline unit to match the new transmission, the input gear is available from your dealer or Advance Adapters. The AX-15 bellhousing will bolt up to both the 4.0L and the 258.

You can do it, but you'll need some deep pockets. The transmission alone will likely cost more than the Wagoneer, but if you're nutty enough to try it, go for it! Rest assured, you'll have a one of a kind. However, before you start emptying those pockets, I'd strongly suggest talking with Advance Adapters (www.advanceadapters.com) to check on the availability and pricing of the necessary adapters.

If you use a TorqueFlite 999 out of another CJ-7 that had a Dana 300 transfer case, the swap really won't be that tough. If you wanted the conversion to look like a factory installation you'd need to change the steering column and brake pedal assembly. Rounding up the shift linkage and various small parts will likely be the hardest part of the job. Be sure to look for a 999 with a 23 spline output shaft to match your manual transmission. You'll need a new auto transmission flywheel, and new driveshafts due to the longer length of the auto. With that said, you may just want to consider sticking with your left leg/right arm exercise routine.

The only V8's that will bolt to your T-5 without adapters would be the AMC's. Regardless of what V8 you use, your T-5 is going to barf a gear in short order. Either live with the setup you have, or be prepared to shell out some big bucks on a new V8 and transmission, plus the adapters.

To my knowledge, the only 4 speed autos in Jeeps are in late models with computer controls, swapping in one of these units would range from difficult to impossible without the donor engine. I believe a GM TH700R4 can be fitted with the use of expensive adapters at both ends, but the cost would probably outweigh the benefit. If you're interested, check out http://www.advanceadapters.com for more info.

I don't think anyone would argue that a small block Chevy V8 is the easiest and least expensive V8 swap for your YJ. It's been done literally thousands of times, and there is a huge amount of aftermarket support for the conversions. You will need to plan on replacing your transmission with something a little more sturdy for the V8, the NV4500 would be a good choice. These links might interest you: http://www.advanceadapters.com and http://www.netgate.net/~tc/jbconversions

Your transmission is most likely a T-14, you will have to purchase an adapter for a Chevy V8 swap.

You didn't mention whether you wanted to use an auto or manual transmission. Either way, virtually any 4x4 transmission that will bolt up to a 360 can be adapted to the 231 transfer case.

Do any changes need to be made, like motor mount locations, or is this as easy as it sounds? "

An AMC V8 is as close as it gets for a simple bolt in V8 swap. Your 258 has the same bellhousing pattern as the 360. Just make sure the 360 crankshaft is drilled for a pilot bearing, some 360's in vehicles with automatic transmissions weren't. You'll need to use the factory 304 motor mounts for your 360.

Go for the newer 2.5L swap. Be sure to get the wiring harness and computer with the engine, and be sure the engine came from a manual transmission application. Considering there's virtually no demand for used 2.5L engines, you should be able to keep the cost way below the $2300 mark.

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