When your tank is full it should hold 19 gallons, or at least very close to it.  The minimum level in the tank required for the engine to run is a little difficult to determine. It really depends on where the pickup tube is located in the tank. Your engine would probably run with a half gallon of gas in the tank on level ground, but if you're off road and at an angle it may sputter. I wouldn't let the tank ever get below a gallon. Running the fuel pump dry can and will damage it. The pump depends on the gasoline flow to lubricate it.

In 1945 when the first Jeep was introduced for sale to the public, it was called the CJ-2A. CJ was presumably an abbreviation for "Civilian Jeep" since all previous Jeeps had been strictly for military use. All model designations after the CJ are basically meaningless, they are nothing but internal code designations for use by Chrysler...or AMC, or Kaiser, and so on. YJ does not stand for "Youth Jeep", even if the demographics suggest that it may be true.

Our sponsor, Turner 4WD (www.thejeep.com) has tons of parts for older Jeeps. Give them a try!

You can switch into and out of 4WD high range at any speed. Sometimes it may be necessary to let off the gas in order to shift the transfer case easily into 4WD high range. You should only shift into 4L at a dead stop and with the transmission in neutral. If you had been in 4WD, you likely would not have "spun out". Unless you have the Selec-Trac 4WD system on your Jeep, I wouldn't recommend using 4WD on wet streets. You generally will only want to use 4WD in very slippery conditions so that the drivetrain will not bind in turns. To see what I mean, place your Jeep in 4WD and make a sharp turn on dry pavement. You will feel the steering wheel jerking in your hand and your Jeep will begin to lurch. This is putting a considerable amount of stress to the drivetrain and should generally be avoided. On loose dirt or snow, the wheels will break traction and slip to avoid the binding. Similarly, the Selec-Trac system has a clutch in the transfer case that will slip to avoid binding.

A lift kit is not necessarily mandatory for the majority of trails. If your currently dragging on rocks, ruts, etc., the only way to cure the problem is to install larger tires. You can easily install 30" tires on your Jeep, and even squeeze in 31's without a lift kit. Installing a larger tire with a more aggressive tread pattern is the easiest way to gain off road performance. The second step would be to insure that your tires maintain contact with the ground by installing a set of swaybar disonnects. Articulation will dramatically improve and will lessen the negative effects of an open differential. If you still want more (and we always will), install lockers in one or both axles. By the time you're done with that list and you're ready to move to the next step, your dad probably won't care whether you lift it or not. In the meantime, it can be very beneficial to learn the finer points of off road driving in a stock 4x4. You'll quickly learn why you got stuck, and what you'll need next time to avoid getting stuck again.

Any high mileage engine is going to knock like crazy with no oil pressure. You might ask the shop whether there was literally zero oil pressure or just very little. Zero oil pressure would indicate that there's either no oil in the engine or the pump has completely come apart or doesn't turn, a condition that could be fixed with a relatively simple repair. That scenario is highly unlikely. More likely oil pressure is extremely low due to worn rod and main bearings, in which case the only cure is an engine overhaul.

Check out www.dirtroad.com/articlee.htm and www.dirtroad.com/edit.htm for two proven power gains for 4.0L XJ's. Borla (www.borla.com) makes a full length stainless header for 4.0's to improve exhaust flow that ought to add a few more horses, and Turbo City has an oversize throttle body to increase airflow on the intake side. If that isn't enough, check out www.rimmerenginc.com for a bolt on supercharger.

It really sounds to me like they're taking a shot in the dark, and replacing the most expensive parts first. If BOTH dealers are giving you the same diagnosis, then the "computer" may be the problem and may be worth a shot. Two hours of labor seems awfully steep though, perhaps they're including a lunch break. The only idle problems I've ever experienced in a 4.2L Jeep were directly related to the carb and were fixed with a rebuild. I'm not saying the dealer(s) are incorrect in their diagnosis (they've had a chance to look at it, I haven't). It just seems unlikely to me that it's a computer problem on a carburetted vehicle. You might ask the dealer if they've checked the idle control motor that's mounted on the carb flange, the EGR valve (if it's stuck open, it will run rough) and the ignition timing.

I can't believe the local dealer isn't willing to help, considering Mopar sells a retrofit AC kit for your YJ. Try contacting Leon Rosser Jeep (http://www.thinkjeep.com) for the factory kit. I believe it sells for roughly $1200.

I don't know whether they'll build it or not, but it certainly has gotten everyone's attention. If you just can't wait for the Dakar, check out American Expedition Vehicles stretched Wrangler (http://www.aev-conversions.com/lwbwrangler.html). You can order one from them already outfitted with 33" tires, air lockers, and a winch.

I'm unaware of any chronic gauge problems in newer Wranglers, but considering the fact that they are mass produced (i.e. cheap) I don't doubt that many of them are faulty. Short of adding a more dependable aftermarket gauge (or replacing the factory units with aftermarket ones in the original factory location?) I really can't recommend any long term reliable fix.

There are a few parts available from Mopar, various camshafts, and even an improved cylinder head assembly. These parts may make your turnip bleed, but I really don't think they're cost effective. Consider adding a K&N filter and possibly a cat-back exhaust system, just don't expect big results.

The 4 cyl./5 speed combination usually comes with 4.10 axle ratios. If you've installed even slightly larger tires, you're greatest performance benefit may be found in swapping in a lower gear set.

Your carburetor could be running very rich which would create a lot of heat within the converter. Pull a few spark plugs and check for fouling. If the plugs check OK, then it's probably a simple matter of your converter failing. With age, the converter will fall apart internally, and can restrict the airflow. This would again cause very high temperatures at the converter. Regardless which component was the initial cause of the problem, you're going to need to replace the converter and everything behind it. Garbage from the failed converter may have blown downstream into the muffler.

You can drive your Grand Cherokee in all wheel drive mode as much as you want, no damage will occur. Gas mileage will very likely drop a small amount due to the added resistance of the front driveshaft and axle. On dry pavement, I'd recommend leaving the transfer case in 2wd mode since the added traction of the front wheels simply isn't needed, and for greater efficiency.

Swapping to four wheel discs will drop braking distances considerably, not to mention how much easier they are to service. Check with Stainless Steel Brakes (http://www.stainlesssteelbrakes.com), they have a complete bolt on kit for your TJ.

I'm unaware of any direct polyurethane replacement. Considering the stock rubber lasted 10 years, replacing the mount with another stock piece would be a reasonable choice. The downside to polyurethane engine and transmission mounts is that they tend to transmit more vibration from the drivetrain into the chassis, and into the drivers seat.

Unless the engine has been swapped, 87 YJ's used a carburetted 4.2L (258 c.i.) engine, not the newer EFI 4.0L. The 5-speed was built by Peugeot, and (to put it bluntly) is garbage. If by some miracle it has lasted 118K without a rebuild, you can count on a transmission failure soon. The mileage on the engine isn't of huge concern, you should be able to get over 150K out of it if it's been well maintained. That'll give you about 3 years before you need to start considering a rebuild. The transfer case is also worth a look, it may have the less desirable NP207 (there's an ID tag on the back of the case) as opposed to the newer NP231. If the Jeep has the Peugeot/NP207 combination, you may want to pass on this deal.

Unless you live somewhere in the arctic, you should notice a difference between the AC and outside air temperatures. Is the compressor even cycling? I'd suggest taking your Jeep back to the dealer for warranty service.

Check Summit Racing (http://www.summitracing.com) or Leon Rosser Jeep (http://www.thinkjeep.com).

Try Turner 4WD (http://www.thejeep.com) or Leon Rosser Jeep (http://www.thinkjeep.com).

Check out our sponsor at http://www.thejeep.com/autobook.html They have reprints of the original 88 YJ manual and will be more than happy to ship one to you.

I believe JC Whitney has a complete exhaust kit from your manifolds to tailpipes. www.jcwhitneyusa.com

Point of interest: My XJ just turned 209815 miles and had to replace my U-Joints at the front wheel hubs. The Jeep dealership said no one made greasable U-Joints for that application....WRONG- NAPA makes U-Joints for that location which have needle fitting in head - (NAPA U-Joint#378) please pass to fellow Cherokee owners and other Jeepers. Thanks."

I don't know off hand whether anyone makes replacement seats that will work with your mounts, you'll just have to call the various aftermarket seat manufacturers (Flofit, Recaro, etc..) and ask them.

I think I'd let Hesco rebuild your 4.0 before performing a V8 swap in your XJ. Installing a freshly rebuilt EFI V8 and a different transmission will push $5 grand anyway. The 4.0 should still get better mileage than a 300hp V8, and retain a clean, stock underhood appearance. Thanks for the U-joint info.

Actually 14 mpg doesn't seem low for a new 4.0 engine in city driving conditions. Mileage should slightly improve as the engine breaks in.

There isn't anything inherently wrong with this particular Jeep. It most likely has a T-15 transmission that should last forever as long as it has oil in it. The transfer case is a Dana 20, the rear axle a Dana 44. I'd say the Jeep is worth the $500 price tag. Enjoy your new toy.

I'd bet the wiring is at fault and not the gauges or sending units. It'd be a little odd for both to go out at the same time. Obtain a factory manual for your Jeep and trace the wires.

Once again, Advance Adapters (www.advanceadapters.com) is your one stop Jeep swap source. If your 4 speed is original, than it is a T98 and is more than adequate for V8 power. If you're referring to swapping in a Buick 350 in place of the existing V6, then the job is a bolt in. If you want a Chevy 350, AA can supply you with new motor mounts and bellhousing adapter. AA will also have all the parts (except the box, pump, and hoses) to convert your CJ to the later Saginaw steering.

Check out Turner 4WD at http://www.thejeep.com/cup.html

There weren't a whole lot of Scramblers built, something around 40,000 of them. Because of that, the price tag is usually 15-25 percent higher than an equivalent CJ-7, you got a good deal on yours. Leon Rosser Jeep (www.thinkjeep.com) has a full length top available for about $2000.

Compared to a Porsche, a Jeep Wrangler would roll easily. A Jeep isn't a sports car, and shouldn't be driven like one. With that out of the way, I'd say a stock Wrangler is very unlikely to roll over in any street driving situation. Jeep has gone to considerable length over the last 10 years to improve the stability and handling of the Wrangler.

If you've put three different Carter carbs on your CJ then you've already dumped enough cash for a simple aftermarket EFI system. No carb will ever perform as well on inclines as fuel injection. Rather than dumping more money into an antiquated induction system, sport for the EFI.

You know how the best jokes always have some truth in them? There's one for Jeeps. It's rumored that Jeep may actually stand for Just Empty Every Pocket. If your husband sold the Jeep shortly after rebuilding it, both of you would lose tons of money. The resale value of the Jeep would probably be less than the cost of a good engine rebuild. However, don't tell your husband "I told you so" yet. If he is really attached to his Jeep (and most Jeep owners wouldn't sell theirs for twice it's worth), then it could be a good deal for the both of you. Let's say you and your husband invest $5000 to "restore" it to good driving condition. It should take another 10 years to wear out the engine again, during that time you only spent an average of $500 dollars a year on transportation. Most people pay $500 or more per month on their vehicles. Of course repair costs will be higher than on a new vehicle, at some point you'll probably need to rebuild the transmission and some steering components will need to be replaced. Even after factoring in those costs, you'll be money ahead if your husband really likes the Jeep and keeps it for the long term.

Aero Tanks has a 30 gallon replacement, their phone is 800/783-4826. I'm glad your experience with ARB was as positive as mine.

If you find the engine bogging often, (like a lot of fourth gear downshifts on the highway) then installing a lower axle ratio may regain some of the mileage. The usual K&N filter and cat-back exhaust may slightly improve fuel mileage too. However, I doubt these modifications will bring you back to 19 mpg again, even with a corrected odometer.

You might try Leon Rosser Jeep (www.thinkjeep.com), they may still have new "old" radios or know where one is. Beyond that you'll have to scour the junkyards.

BTW: I love your magazine and thats why I chose you for this question"

There aren't any Jeep kits out there that I'm aware of, but I think you've brought up a good idea. My experience is that it's worth spending a little more for a Jeep with a clear title despite it's condition. You could then purchase an untitled Jeep for use as parts. Repeated trips to the completely unhelpful DMV have taught me that lesson.

All you have to do is make a phone call to Advance Adapters (800-350-2223) for the necessary adapter for your T90 as well as new motor mounts and exhaust headers. They can supply everything you need for the conversion (except for the engine).

For a humorous look at the Jeep waving ritual check out http://www.dirtroad.com/wave.htm

According to the serial number and the reference material I have, you have a CJ-5. All I can say for the year model is that it was built somewhere between 1955-70. The engine in your Jeep should be an "F" head four cylinder, the "L" head was only used in earlier CJ-2A's.

Sounds like you've already found a few upgrades that worked. If you're still wanting more power, Turbo City (www.turbocity.com) has released a performance kit for your 2.5 that includes a larger throttle body and new exhaust, they're claiming a gain of 20 hp.

Overdoing it? Not with the above modifications. Things such as very large lift/long duration camshafts, supercharging or turbocharging, or the addition of nitrous oxide could quickly get you in trouble though.

Moving up to 30" tires will not affect the ABS.

I had the same luck you did with a set of Goodyear Wranglers, I was experiencing blowouts long before the tread was worn. On the other hand, I've gone through numerous sets of BFG's without a single failure. You may not experience the same results, but they've performed extremely well for me.

Any clutch type (i.e. trac-loc) limited slip is going to start wearing and losing it's effectiveness as soon as it's driven. Off the showroom floor, you can feel the unit working if you accelerate through a sharp turn during normal driving. Two months later, you'll never notice that $300 dollar option on or off road. If you decide to replace your trac-loc with another limited slip, make sure the new unit is a gear driven one, instead of a clutch type.

Editor's Note: I also shredded three of my OEM Goodyear Wranglers the first week I had my TJ! I have had absolutely no trouble with my BFG's.

Try Turner 4WD (www.thejeep.com) and Leon Rosser Rosser Jeep (www.thinkjeep.com), either one should have what you need.

The CJ-8 is a longer wheelbase version of the CJ-7. Production ran from 1981 to '84 and only 40,000 were produced. The CJ-8 Scrambler was a flop in terms of sales. Fifteen years later the Scrambler is virtually a collectors item and tends to command a higher price than it's CJ-5/7 counterparts. Some retired AMC exec's must be really scratching their heads about that one. The Scrambler may be more common in the western states, but that doesn't mean it's impossible to locate one in the midwest. Keep checking the classifieds in your area and one is bound to turn up. You'll probably find the Scrambler sells for considerably less in your location than it does on the west coast.

The CJ-8 is no less prone to a side roll over as a similar year CJ-7. The width is identical.

The CJ-10 is also a long wheelbase Jeep, but only available as an export model.

Actually 210 degrees is normal operating temperature for your Jeep, the hotter temperature tends to lower emissions levels. You really don't want your Jeep to operate at 160 degrees. At that temperature, the computer will likely read that the engine is still cold and consequently retard the timing and enrich the fuel mixture. The result will be less mpg, less power, and higher emissions. I wouldn't try to lower the operating temperature beyond 180. The 160 degree temperature rating on your new thermostat is only a measure of when the thermostat opens to allow coolant flow, not what the engine coolant temperature will be. Generally operating temps are 10 to 20 degrees higher than the thermostat rating.

Don't use 4 wheel drive on wet pavement. You've probably noticed a binding/jerking during sharp turns while in 4 wheel drive. If the tires are getting that much traction, you don't need and shouldn't be in 4 wheel drive.

I'm positive the cruise control could be retrofitted to your Jeep. The question is what parts do you need to purchase or replace and whether Jeep sells it in a kit. You'll have to contact them for that info and a price.

The only significant mechanical difference between the TJ and YJ is the suspension. After more than 50 years, Jeep finally abandoned the leaf spring setup in favor of much better riding and articulating coil springs on the new TJ. The differences in the drivetrain between newer YJ's and TJ's are either non-existent or insignificant. The engines and transmissions are the same, but the front axles and transfer cases are slightly different.

I hate paying dealer prices too, but unless you own your own shop there's not much you can do about it. Leon Rosser Jeep has been very good to me as far as receiving the right parts, but they still charge dealer prices. Turner 4WD should also be a good source for anyone looking for older CJ parts.

Probably a newer fuel injected six cylinder YJ will be the most reliable/driveable for your commute and still allow plenty of fun on the weekends.

Since you're already considering it, you might as well quit dumping money into an induction system that didn't work all that well to begin with. Go for the EFI swap.

Check out Leon Rosser Jeep (www.thinkjeep.com) for the factory manuals pertaining to your Jeep. The manuals won't be of much benefit for your Chevy 350, but will have plenty of detailed info on the rest of your CJ. Congratulations on your new purchase!

Editor's Note: Also see www.thejeep.com for service manuals.

I've spent hours troubleshooting the ignition on an old six cylinder because it kept backfiring, only to find a clogged fuel filter. Check that first. Otherwise check spark plug wires and the cap and rotor, as well as ignition timing. If that doesn't help, find another mechanic to work on your Jeep. Obviously the one you're going to isn't getting the job done.

Both the power and manual steering boxes have the same mounts for your Jeep. All you'll need to do is find another power steering box, with the steering arm, (anything from a 72-86 CJ should work) and power steering pump and brackets for your engine. Connect the pump and box with a pair of hoses and you're done.

There really aren't any serious consequences other than what you've already mentioned, an overall perceived loss of power. Your speedometer will be off, but you could correct that by replacing the speedometer gear in the transfer case. Your clutch might also live a little longer with lower axle gears as well, since you won't have to slip it as much to get your Jeep rolling.

I just got a Cherokee for $2000 because I needed a grocery getter; my CJ-7 doesn't fit that bill anymore with a family of five. I now live in an area that seems like it will have some very icy road conditions this winter. I have a 8 mile traverse to work. Which Jeep will serve my purposes under those conditions better, the CJ or the Cheerokee? I think I prefer the CJ with the manual trans, but thought I would get another opinion. Thanks."

Which one handles a snow packed road better probably depends on which one has better tires more than anything else. A manual transmission would be beneficial if you encounter steep grades on your trip to work.

There are quite a few sources for an aluminum replacement valve cover. One of which is 4WD Hardware (www.4wd.com), they sell it for $120. Not very often does an engine last over 150K without exhibiting some clear signs of being tired. An engine rebuild is probably not too far away.

Leon Rosser Jeep (www.thinkjeep.com) has restoration decals and info, you might give them a try.

A Jeep dealership should be able to tell you what trim package you had if you provide your VIN number.

If you know where I could find more about the topic it would be greatly appreciated."

All of the Bronco's in the years that you mentioned (82-90) came with removable fiberglass tops. Remove the bolts and pull off the top.

I'd skip the factory limited slip in favor of an aftermarket unit. Clutch type limited slips begin to wear immediately and have a tendency to turn into un-limited slips. The skid plates are worth it.

Your 4 cylinder would probably love to have some lower gear sets installed considering the 33" tires. When you install the 4.56's, throw in the lockers at the same time. Beyond that, modify your Jeep to YOUR off roading needs. Someone else's modifications may not help your Jeep. If you find you still need a winch after the locker install, go for it. If nothing else, you could use it to rescue other, less fortunate souls.

I can only guess at the noise in your front end, but it sounds like either a bad U-joint or possibly a bad wheel bearing. For your new springs, either have a set custom made for your conversion, or replace your sagging springs with stock ones again. Using aftermarket lift springs will likely reduce articulation and ride quality on your Jeep.

Regardless of what tire size you're running, a swap to 4.56 gears will bring the engine speed up. You'll probably feel like you have more power, but gas mileage may suffer since the engine is spinning faster. There really isn't much you can do to the engine itself to enhance performance, other than simply maintaining it. Jeep has pretty well hopped up the 4 cylinder from the factory. It has a fairly high compression ratio of 9.2:1, and produces a respectable 48 horsepower per liter. By comparison, the "Magnum" 5.2 liter in the Grand Cherokee produces 42 horses per liter.

Also, where the gas line goes into the tank, it is soldered on. Is it safe to heat the solder up to take out the line (after the tank is dry), or does the metal absorb gasoline and become flammable? I would appreciate any help, know-how, or helpful know-how!"

I'd be pretty reluctant to throw rocks in my gas tank whether it worked or not. The rubber mallet trick may work, but surely won't remove all of it. I'd suggest plugging the bottom of the tank and pouring a gallon or so of carburetor cleaner (not the spray can stuff) in and let it soak. Carb cleaner is designed to remove varnish.

If you're going to heat up and remove the line, fill the tank as much as possible with water first. The metal doesn't absorb the gasoline, but you want to be sure there are no flammable fumes in the tank before you apply heat.

Sorry, no chrome. Check out 4WD Hardware for an aluminum replacement though (http://www.4wd.com).

The VIN program works really well on Chrysler built Jeeps, not so well on CJ's. The VIN should be attached on top of the dash just in front of the steering wheel and again on the engine compartment side of the firewall just beneath the wiring harness plug.

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