Almost all XJ's with 4 liter engines and automatics came with 3.55 axle ratios. There is an ID tag on the differential cover that is attached by two bolts. This tag will have the ratio stamped in it. The 3.55 ratio works very well with stock size tires. Unfortunately the 4.0 engine really suffers when 31" tires are installed with the stock 3.55 ratio. There simply isn't enough torque in the 4.0 to compensate for what amounts to a gear change when installing larger tires. To explain further, a larger diameter tire will create an overdrive effect since it will travel fewer revolutions in a given distance than a smaller diameter tire. This will lower engine rpm's at any given speed. Stock 27.5" tires and 3.55 gears work well. Adding a 31" tall tire would have a similar effect as using a stock 27.5" tall tire, but with a 3.20 ratio. But it get's worse, add the weight of a larger tire and the increased rolling and wind resistance and those larger tires will drag you down even more.

I know there are a lot of people reading this who have 31" tires on their XJ with 3.55 gears. Probably about half would say their Jeep works fine, the other half would complain about the constant downshifting to 3rd gear while on the highway. Personally I think a 4.10 gear swap is mandatory to bring back the driveability in a 4.0 XJ that originally came with 3.55's.

For more information, see Gear-Ratio Calculators and Determining Gear Ratios.

"I have a 1978 Jeep CJ5, with a 258/3sp. Where can I find a replacement fuse block?"

Both Turner 4WD (www.thejeep.com and Leon Rosser Jeep www.thinkjeep.com carry fairly obscure factory Jeep parts. If both of those fail, you can scour the junkyards or contact an aftermarket company such as Painless Wiring (www.painlesswiring.com) and adapt their fuse blocks to your needs.

"I have a 1983 Jeep CJ7, with an AMC 401/TH400. I have an aAMC 401 with a Holley 4-barrel, and I have a lot of problems with it flooding on extreme angles. I have read about a cagle fuel-regulator, runs off of engine vacuum. Unable to locate a place to buy one. Or can you give me some ways to correct this problem"

Unfortunately the company producing Cagle fuel regulators went out of business several years ago. Usually problems with flooding on extreme angles is a sign of the float level being too high. There are numerous books written solely about tuning Holley carburetors, and I strongly recommend purchasing one. Most Holley carbs will work well off road when properly tuned.

"I have a 1999 Cherokee Sport, with a 4.0/ manual. So I am a new Jeep owner. All of my off-roading encounters have been impressive (dirtroad score of 119). I have seen my Jeep out-perform many others due to the fact that I am towing people out of rough terrain every time I get away from the pavement. I am also a college student, so my funds are limited. I am just curious to what would be on your 'essentials' list for upgrades to make my Jeep that much better than those 'better than a station wagon' SUV's."

Start off with the easy stuff. Install swaybar disconnects front and rear. The increased wheel travel will really help off road, particularly when there are no anti slip devices in the differentials. From there, I'd consider installing a locker in the rear axle. You can purchase an EZ locker and install it yourself for about 250 bucks. When you find yourself consistently having trouble navigating trails with that setup, then consider a lift kit and larger tires. The good news is that by then, you'll probably be out of college anyway.

"I have a 1985 Jeep YJ, with a 2.5. We are new Jeep owners, just recently purchased our 1985 YJ.  I would like to know what all the intials mean (ex. YJ, CJ, TJ, XJ etc.). If you could let us know we would appreciate it. Thanks"

The initials don't necessarily stand for anything, at least not the current models. They are simply the manufacturers production codes. The common belief is that the older "CJ" stood for "Civilian Jeep". If your Jeep is an '85 model, than it would be a CJ7, not a YJ which began production in '87. Still confused? See http://www.dirtroad.com/a.htm

"I have a 1993 Jeep YJ, with a 4.0L. My question is about air conditioning in my YJ.  I want to add air for when it rains and I have to put the top up.  I was wondering if you would know what I need to get in order to put it on myself.  I know the belt and compressor and all the plumbing, but I want to know what else I might need, and maybe a round figure of how much it might cost for the addition."

Since you're still using the stock engine, the easiest way to add air conditioning is to purchase the complete kit from your Jeep dealer. It's pricey at about $1100, but all of the parts are brand new and you'll have everything you'll need to finish the installation.

"I have a 1984 CJ7, with a 2.5L/T-5 manual and manual steering. I really would like to swap to a power steering set-up. The problem I have is...will a whole power steering set-up from another Jeep or any truck for that matter swap in? If so what will I need to get out of this donor vehicle?  Parts, pump? Box? Brackets? Any help in this area will help. Thank you."

The swap is a whole lot easier than you think. All you need to do is find a power steering box and shaft from another 80's CJ at a salvage yard. Locate a power steering pump and brackets for your engine while your there. These could be from another CJ or even an early 4 cylinder Cherokee should fit. For more details concerning the swap take a look at http://www.dirtroad.com/ps-art.htm

"I have a 1993 Jeep Wrangler, with a 4 Cyl. 1. Who makes a snorkel system for the intake?

2.  A friend wants me to replace the pulleys for more power.  Will this be a good thing or not?"

ARB makes a snorkel system for your intake.

Installing new pulleys to increase power is a bad idea for four wheelers. The increased power comes from slowing down your accessories such as your alternator and water pump to decrease the amount of power it takes to turn them. This means you have less available electrical charging power for winches and lights, and less cooling capability for low speed rock crawling. Those are two things that are critical for a safe off road trip. Compromise them and you may have to get back home via the Nike Express.

"I have a 1990 Chrokee, with a 4.0L. After reading a lot of good questions about problems I've never had, I guess I'm lucky. Recently when I step on the brakes, I come to a very slow stop - can not make an abrupt stop with any amount of pressure. Front and rear pads over 50% good, replaced master cylinder - no effect, replaced power boost canister - no effect, checked all lines for crimping, bled all wheels checked for different throughputs, none noticed, maintained 1500 rpm and applied brakes- no significant difference. Have been unable to find a vacuum leak up or down, mechanic from local Jeep dealer can't find out why my brakes do not allow for an immediate stop - even checked for oil on pads - no such luck. Might you have any other suggestions?"

My guess is that either the wheel cylinders or the calipers are not holding pressure. They may or may not be leaking externally, more likely the piston is worn in the cylinder bore and fluid is blowing past. If this is the case, you should feel a slow drop in braking while maintaining the same pedal pressure. You might also try turning the rotors and drums to remove any "glaze" from them. The slight roughness of a newly turned rotor will also greatly improve braking.

"I had a '78 304 V8 CJ5 years ago. My father used to have an old WWII jeep. I loved them both. After 20 years or so, I'm just getting back into jeeps. I won't say money isn't an issue but I have a fairly large budget. I need advice as to whether to buy a new Jeep and add equipment or buy a used one and make it a project. I live in Georgia and would use it for off-roading primarily on old washed out narrow logging roads, trails, and mud. It must be street legal, too. So, should I buy a new one (and add some equipment), or buy an older one and build it up from there (and if the answer to this question is yes, which year/model should I start with?). Thanks in advance for any suggestions."

I'm not sure just how much work you're willing to do, I'll assume you're like most of us and would rather be out driving your Jeep than working on it. With that said, you're probably better off purchasing a new(er) Jeep. The new TJ Wrangler is very capable in stock form with it's coil spring suspension and fuel injected engine. On the other hand, if a new Wrangler is stretching your budget, you might look for a late 70's V8 powered CJ7 similar to the Jeep you previously owned. In 1980, Jeep laid the axe to the V8 option and began to use much lighter duty transmissions. Depending on a CJ's condition, you may have to spend some money on it to ensure reliability but in the long run it would be much less expensive than a TJ, though maybe not as "comfortable". As for me, I like my dash made of steel thank you.

"I have a 1999 TJ with a 4 liter, 6 cyl/auto. I chose to go with the 3-speed automatic, but it doesn't seem to be just that. While listening to my engine and watching the rpm guage, it appears that there is an extra speed.  Almost as if there is a 4th gear.  I know it's a 3-speed, but I have no idea what that 'extra shift' is??  Do you know?"

I've addressed this before in previous issues, but it's still a popular question. The "extra shift" you are referring to is caused by the torque convertor lock up feature. The torque convertor typically "slips" during acceleration/deceleration similar to a clutch that is partially engaged. Nearly all modern automatic transmissions will "lock" creating a direct drive between engine and transmission to improve gas mileage. This results in roughly a 400 rpm drop. The transmissions that Jeep uses in all of their current models lock very abruptly during a steady cruise giving the effect of an extra gear.

"I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee SE, with a 4.0. I had the brakes serviced six months ago. The calipers were also replaced with supposedly new units. After only 8000 miles of use the calipers are all covered with rust. I live in California and never ever drive off road with this Jeep. Did the repair shop rip me off? Is this something I should worry about? Is there anything I can do about this?"

Brake calipers are made of cast iron. Cast iron will rust very quickly unless there is some sort of coating on it. The rust is purely cosmetic and will have no effect on the braking performance of your Jeep. If you want, remove the calipers and spray them with some high temperature paint.  One more thing, shame on you for not using your Jeep off road!

"I am looking to get into a CJ5 or 7, perferably with a V-8. What I realy need to know is, how feasable is it to tow a 5000 pound boat with dual axles and surge brakes on both axles 50 miles to the lake on the freeways? Or what CJ setup (if any) would you recomend?"

I'm sure there are some people who tow 5000 lbs with a CJ on a regular basis, but I wouldn't recommend it. You'd be placing a huge stress on both the drivetrain and frame of a CJ. Your boat weighs a lot more than a CJ was ever designed to tow. The worst part, and the most dangerous, would be the handling of the short wheelbase Jeep with 5000 lbs of weight behind it. The wheelbase of a CJ is so short that driving down the freeway would be a white knuckle affair with a boat behind it. A tire blowout on the trailer or Jeep could easily result in a very bad accident. If you want a Jeep for tow duties, look into a J series truck or maybe a full size wagoneer.

"I have a 1992  Jeep Wrangler, with a 4.0. If I drive my jeep for an extended period, then let it rest for 3-4 hours, it will not start.  However, if I leave it overnight, it always starts the following morning.  My mechanic replaced a number of different relays, but this has failed to correct the problem. I am definitely losing patience."

If you are losing patience, then take your Jeep to the dealership. Very few independent shops have the capability and the support to properly diagnose driveability problems with your Jeep. Quite often numerous parts are replaced unnecessarily until the actual offending part is found. This wastes time and money. More often than not, one trip to the dealership will fix the problem rather than several to the local garage.

"I have a '95 YJ, with a 4.0/manual. I do lots of over the road driving, and the leg room is limited.  Is there an aftermarket cruise control that would work on this Jeep?  Dealer does not have them. Friend had one put on his '93 4.0 manual by the dealer. What is the difference that makes them now unavailable? Thanks."

Something sounds a little fishy here. My guess is that your parts salesman had no interest in helping you. Try contacting Leon Rosser Jeep (www.thinkjeep.com) or Don A Vee Jeep (www.donavee.com). I suspect they won't have any trouble finding a cruise control for your Jeep.

"I have a 1997 Wrangler Sahara, with a 4.0 auto. I would like to know the rated horsepower of my Wrangler Sahara. My manual does not provide me with this information and engine-savvy friends can only provide me with an educated guess."

Jeep had a rather odd mix of power ratings for 4.0L engines across the line in '97. Your Jeep was rated at 181 hp @ 4600 rpm and 222 lb-ft of torque at 2800 rpm. The same year Cherokee had 190 hp @ 4600 rpm and 225 lb-ft of torque @ 3000 rpm. The Grand Cherokee had yet another rating of 185 hp @ 4600 rpm and 220 lb-ft of torque at 2400 rpm.

"I have a 1989 Jeep Wrangler, with a six cylinder/standard. The gas gauge needle constantly swings back and forth. Can it be fixed without changing the whole instrument cluster out?"

Absolutely, the fault is not in the gauge, but in the sending unit. Run the gas tank until it is almost empty, remove the tank and replace the sender.

"A couple months ago I had the pleasure of seeing the Dakar (this is the four door Jeep with the shovels on the side). Have you heard anything more about it? When will it be in production, if ever? Any way, I loved it and I would love to have it in my driveway. I would even give up my Wrangler for it. Let me know."

Lots of people would like one in their driveway. From what I've heard, enough people have liked it to get the attention of Chrysler. Check out http://www.car-truck.com/chryed/detroit/cd080498.htm for more info.

"I have a 1979 CJ-7, with a 4.2 w/auto (909). I just recently installed my auto and in real need of some brake boosting (still have manual brakes, no booster). Is there a power brake booster swap or application you have done other than a factory unit? I'm using 11" drums in rear and stock disc's up front!"

Sorry, the only power brake swaps I've done always involved using factory parts. Even if their performance wasn't superb, it was at least adequate. I'm sure there are other boosters out there that would fit with a little modification. You'll just have to find a parts store that is willing to help you with a little experimenting. Good luck.

"What ever happened to Jeep's concept for the 4-door Wrangler? I think they called it the Dakar. Did they scrap the concept or did they decide to produce it."

There is some rumor that the Dakar will see production, but until Chrysler announces it we won't know for sure. Time will tell.

"I have a 1983 CJ7, with a 4.0/5sd. Can you give me a suggestion for good quality replacement seats for my Jeep? I've seen several in 4x4 magazines but can't really tell about quality from pictures. Not wanting to spend a fortune though, either. Thanks."

The only suggestion I can give you at this point is to avoid Steel Horse seats. My own experience with their seats has left me very unsatisfied. If I run across a seat that I'm satisfied with, I'll pass that along.

"I have a  Jeep , with a four cylinder. Hey Grant, I have a question.  I am planning to buy another car for off-roading. I want to know what the best Jeep would be to go with for the most power.  I know that the old CJ-7's have V8's in them, but do the old V8's actually out-perform the newer inline 6's??  I need to know the answer to this question because I am about to embark on the quest of buying a new Jeep to off-road with, and I dont want to get stuck with not being satisfied.  If you have any input it would be helpful. Thanks."

In stock form, the 4.0L EFI powered Wranglers have similar power ratings to the older 304 V8 powered CJ's. In fact, when the 4.0L engine was introduced, the Wrangler became one of the fastest production four wheel drives made in the 1/4 mile. However, the 304 V8 is much easier to modify with off the shelf parts. A $300 investment could easily put the 304 well over 200 hp and 300 lbs. of torque. If you have no intention of modifying either engine once you purchase the Jeep, the 4.0L is probably the better choice for reliability and efficiency. If you want tons of power and don't mind spending a couple bucks and a few hours to produce it, go for the V8.

"I have a 1997 wrangler, with a 4.0/5spd. I am planning to buy a 1997 Jeep Wrangler (my first Jeep), but I am concerned about towing. My boat weights 1600lbs, and it's load with 400 to 500lb of stuff. I have read that the Wrangler can tow 2000lbs. I am concerned with turns and stopping. Most roads I travel with boat in tow are not very straight. Any thoughts would be helpful."

Obviously you'll want to drive a little more conservatively with boat in tow. Your 1600 lb. boat really isn't that heavy and I don't think your new Wrangler will have any problem pulling it. The factory typically rates towing capacities well within the "safe" zone.  Regardless what you're towing, give yourself some extra distance for braking, don't take turns at warp speed and I don't think you'll have any problem.

"I have a 90 grand wagoneer, with a 360/727. I was wanting to improve gas consumption on my truck.  I noticed that most cars today have electric fans in them, even trucks.  What would happen if I change my fan to an electric one, and what kind of CFM rating  would I need? Also would it be possible to take fuel injection from a Chevy truck and put it on mine? Would this help the gas consumption?  Lastly would the ECU need to be re-programmed, and how much should I be paying for the fuel injection from the junkyard?"

Swapping in an electric fan would probably increase power and mileage to a small extent. I'm concerned as to whether there is an electric fan that will fit and is large enough to cool your 360. I'd suggest contacting the various manufacturers as to the feasibility of the swap and a specific part recommendation.

I would not recommend salvaging an EFI system from a junkyard. It would be much more hassle and expense to adapt a Chevy system to your AMC engine than it would be to purchase an aftermarket kit. The Chevy ECU would have to be reprogrammed and that would probably be the easiest part of the swap. Holley has complete kits for around $600 that would include everything you need for an EFI setup. In the long run I think the Holley option would be cheaper, more reliable, and offer a much cleaner and easier installation.

Another option that would increase mileage a bit is a free flowing exhaust if you haven't already installed one. The easier the engine can breathe, on both  the intake and exhaust side, the greater the improvement in mileage and performance.

"I have a 97 TJ, with a V6. My dad want's to buy just a lift and lockers for now, but would it be eaiser to buy lockers, tires, and a lift at the same time?"

Easier? Not really, it's not that hard to change tires. Some shops offer package deals on lifts and tires that may save your Dad a little money, but otherwise there's no harm in doing your suggested plans one at a time.

"I have a 1982 CJ8, with a 304 AMC. Grant,

I'm in the rebuilding process for my CJ8.  You could easily say that I've dropped a substantial amount of cash into making her the best I can.  My question has to do with the front seats.  The after market  "Super Seats" have quite a high price.  Is there a salvage yard model seat that meet the same standards of those expensive aftermarket models?  I need alot more comfort than the stock seats I have now, can a particular model seat from a certain vehicle match with or swap with the seat brackets I have now?"

I'm willing to bet the YJ seats are a bolt in. You may need the frames along with the seats, but they should be very easy to install in your CJ. A few measurements taken at the salvage yard could save a lot of money over aftermarket seats. Having spent quite a bit of time in a YJ seat, I can say they're relatively comfortable and probably a whole lot more durable than the so called "super seat".

"I have a 1986 Jeep CJ7, with a Inline 6/T4. Grant I have an 86 CJ7. It has a little less than 2 inch shackle lift. 32x10.5R15 Cooper STT's, Trailmaster shocks, steering stabilizer and power steering. My problem is there is a lot of play in the steering. Nothing is loose and I'm almost positive it's not out of alignment. I've heard from a couple people that the steering boxes in older Jeeps do wear considerably. I would appreciate your thoughts on that. Also are the steering boxes in the Wranglers the same? Or close enough to adapt to my CJ?  If replacing the box is the best course of action i've seen ads for a company AGR and they make steering boxes and pumps. Do you know anything about them? Thank you for your time."

There's no question that older CJ steering boxes will get sloppy. Just make sure you've checked everything in the front end before plunking down a good chunk of money for a rebuilt steering box. Check all of the rod ends, ball joints, and wheel bearings for play. Also check the steering shaft from the firewall to the box for looseness.  If you're convinced the play is in the steering box, then call AGR, they do an excellent job. As for the Wrangler steering box swap, I really can't give you an answer. I suspect they are very close, but without being able to compare the two side by side, I can't tell you whether it would be a direct swap or not.

"I have a 1984 jeep cj7, with a inline 6/ man. I need a new intake manifold and carburetor what kind would you recommend. Thanks"

I'd recommend to both of you that you contact Clifford Performance www.cliffordperformance.com for their recommendation.  They have a lot of years building high performance six cylinder engines, including AMC's.

"I have a 1974 CJ5, with a 258. I am trying to find a good replacement carb. and intake for a CJ5. The engine is stock except for a split header and Flowmaster mufflers. Thanks for your help."

See answer to previous question.

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