 For the issue: June 2000 "I have a 1989 Wrangler, with a 4.2 5 speed. Grant, how hard is it to change gears in axles? Is it just time consuming or is it really a hard job to tackle?" It could be done by nearly anyone with a set of hand tools. The trick in the gear swap is doing it right. Increments of a thousandth of an inch could make or break a ring and pinion set up. Unless you have the proper tools to measure, and the knowledge to interpret the information, leave this job to the experts - we do.
"I have a 1986 CJ7, with a T5 manual. I read your article on fitting the Mopar fuel injection kit on the 4.2 I6 which I have in my CJ. The explanation on why the intake manifold was important to the fuel injection system made sense to me. My question is this: I want to use an Offenhauser intake manifold, if I were to buy just the throttle body fuel injection kit, would I recieve similar results with my Offenhauser manifold and a basic throttle body to the mopar kit you used? Also I have heard that I cannot use an Offenhauser intake manifold with power brakes, because it hits the master cylinder. Do you know anything about this, what if I were to use a dual diaphram unit that I have seen companies advertising. Thank you for your time" You'd doubtless get an improvement in efficiency and performance in the setup you suggest over the stock carb, but the same fuel distribution problems would still apply to your new setup. I haven't heard of the interference problem between the booster and the offy manifold; but if you've heard it, rest assured it's happened to somebody. Any readers running an offy manifold on their 258 w/power brakes out there? Let us know if it fits! Email grant@askgrant.net
"I have a 1989 Cherokee XJ, with a 4.0L 4spd auto. My Cherokee turns over for a long time before firing and starting. It never fails to start though, I have a friend with a 4L in his Commanche and it does the same. What is the reason for this? My starter is new, my battery drops to 10.5v while cranking, compression is good, and I run supreme fuel ALWAYS. The temperature also has no effect. It can be -45C or =35C. Can you help? PLEASE!" Judging from the amount of work you have already done on your Jeep, you won't like my answer. The long cranking time is normal. The ECU must get information on the crankshaft position, engine temp, and a laundry list of other vitals before finally throwing the correct spark to the plugs. The delay you have while cranking is the ECU gathering this info.
"I have a 2000 Jeep TJ, with a 4.0L/ Automatic. My 2000 TJ has a Dana 44 rear end with factory limited slip. To improve my Jeep’s hill climbing abilities I was considering buying a Lock Rite locker for the front. I dropped by my local branch of a nationally know 4X4 parts 'Wholesaler', and was told that they only recommend an ARB locker because of handling problems non-air lockers impart to a TJ’s steering. I understand that a TJ’s axle is always turning, but will a locker really make them handle poorly?" There are good, knowlegeable 4x4 shops out there. Then there are the ones that are only concerned about moving product. Find a shop who is more concerned about your Jeep than their commission. Our Project TJ uses an EZ locker up front with no driveability issues whatsoever. Engine/Tranny Swaps: "I have a 1978 Jeep CJ5, with a 400sb Chevy 3spd. I recently started to rebuild my Jeep, tossed the 258 inline six for my 400sb. I would like to swap the factory trans which is at-150 3 spd. which trans and x-case will fit without any mods. except for the cross member? I have tossed the factory axles for a dana 44 front custom & custom dana 60 rearend both with 4.10:1 gears, Detroit lockers front & rear, and 35-spline axle shafts. Nobody will even return a message. Will you?? In desperate need of some help." Pick a tranny....any tranny. The number of options you have are mind boggling. What are you specifically looking for? Do you want the lowest ratio possible? Do you want overdrive? Is durability the major concern? One very good choice behind a small block Chevy is the NP435 tranny commonly found in 70's and 80's Chevy trucks. They are very stout 4 speeds with a good low ratio first gear that can be easily mated to your engine. If you are going to use a Jeep transfer case, then you will require an adapter to mate it. You could just purchase the transfer case and trans out of a junkyard truck and avoid the expense of the adapter, you will just need new driveshafts. Good luck.
"I have a 1981 CJ-8, with a 1986 GM-350/Turbo 400
auto. This is in reference to your 1982 CJ8 Project. I have done a similar engine swap
and it worked out pretty well, however I always seem to have problems with
state inspections every year (Louisiana). Can you shed some some insight as
how you determine the EPA requirements for your engine?? Also, I will have to
replace my rear end, (it always eats up the seals). It also has only 2.73
gears, so I figured I would rather just swap the whole thing out for a unit
with new gears (gear ratio?????). Any tips for the rearend swap??? Desperately
seeking insight.
P.S. I am running 31x11.5 BFGoodrich tires" Fortunately I live in a part of Arizona that does not require emissions inspections. Don't get me wrong, my 350 has all of the smog equipment for an '82 model, but it's never been tested. I'm afraid that the only way to determine what is required of your engine is to contact the DMV. I realize that this is a huge nightmare in itself, but I am unaware of any other place to get the facts for your particular emissions requirements. If any readers have a better alternative for determining an individual state/county inspections requirements, please let us know. As for the rearend swap, contact Dyantrac www.dynatrac.com for a Dana 44 or 60. The gear ratio choice is really up to your personal preference. With the power of the 350, the 2.73's probably work fine on the street. If you don't intend to run any larger tire than a 31", I'd consider 3.73's for a better balance of street/off road use. If you have larger tires in mind, and/or heavy trail use, you may consider 4.10's or 4.56's.
"I have a 1986 CJ7, with a 2.5/4cyl. Hi again Grant! I have an opportunity to buy this 86 CJ7, w/ a 4 banger for darn near nothin'. My friend has an '82 258 I6 he'll sell me for almost nothing. How many problems will I encounter swapping the 4 to the 6?" In the wide world of Jeep engine swaps, you've picked the easiest one. If you have a factory manual transmission in your Jeep, then it is the T5. While not the best transmission, it was available from the factory mated to the 258. You can keep the same transmission, but you will need a new clutch. Purchase the factory 6 cylinder motor mounts and 6 cylinder radiator and drop it in. Considering your minimal investment in this project, I wouldn't hesitate to do it.
"I have a 1987 Jeep Wrangler, with a manual transmission. I'm interested in buying a new (newer-used) Jeep. The Jeep appears real clean, however I have been advised that I need to watch out for the 1987 Jeep manual transmissions because they were made by Peugeot and are junk. The guy I'm buying it from stated that he overhauled the trany last year and went into the rubicon last season, has driven it every day and has never had any problems. Should I be concerned? Please send some advise." You should be very concerned. How should I put this....well....the Peugeot transmission sucks. That's my polite version. The good news is that it can be replaced by the newer AX-15 out of 4.0L YJ's with very, very little effort. If you buy the Jeep, just know that the Peugeot tranny will fail, period. Budget for it.
"I have a 1977 Jeep CJ7, with a 4.2/manual. Is there any place to get roller rockers for my 258?" Suspension & Tires: "I have a 1997 TJ, with a 4.0/5spd. Grant: My TJ is bone stock with the exception of front sway bar disconnects and 31" tires. There are lifts on the market from 1" to 4" and from a few hundred $ to $1,000's. In your opinion, cool looks aside, what is the optimum lift to run Moab to Rubicon and is a $2,700 Teraflex worth $2,000 more than a $700 ProComp? Do you have a preferred kit? " Money aside, it seems to me that the ultimate TJ kit on the market is the Rubicon Express long arm kit. It solves so many problems that come along with the short factory control arms. Of course, it is very expensive and is not the easiest lift to install, but if there were a TJ in my driveway, this is what I'd be running.
"Is there a coil-conversion for CJ's?" There are at least 3 kits I can think of available for CJ7's and 8's. Warn makes one, Explorer Pro Comp makes one, and there is a new one from Tomken Machine that looks very promising. The Pro Comp is the simplest and least expensive of the bunch, but it also provides the least benefit. If all you are after is a smoother ride, the Pro Comp is fine. If you are requiring greater on and off road performance, look elsewhere. You can also buy a new frame with a coil-spring conversion already installed from Matkins Extreme.
"I have a 1992 YJ Wrangler, with a 4.0/5 Speed. I have a 3.5" Tuff Country suspension lift and 1.5" shackles, How do I get more functional wheel travel? I also have 33x12.50x15 Super Swampers TSL. Any advice?" Complete books could be written on this subject. There are so many ways to improve wheel travel on a leaf sprung vehicle. I'd suggest starting with the basics. Determine what is the limiting factor of the wheel travel in your Jeep. More often than not, you will find that it is the shocks. How are the leaf springs clamped? Loosening the leaf clamps or converting to a bolt style clamp can greatly increase downward travel. Even little things like ensuring the shackle bolts aren't overtightened can make a noticeable difference. If you really want to get into it, you might experiment with removing a leaf from the spring pack. (Note that this WILL void the manufacturers warranty). There are a couple of manufacturers that have bolt on "buggy spring" conversions for more rear wheel travel. Using the "revolver" shackles will also increase droop. After that, you can get into the serious business of completely replacing your existing suspension and either using an aftermarket coil spring kit or building a 3/4 elliptic, airbag, 3 link, 4 link etc. suspension system. My advice is to check the simple stuff first, put lockers in both axles, and enjoy.
"I have a 1994 Jeep Wrangler, with a stock/automatic. I don't know much about cars, but I know what I like on 'em. I'm 16 and the owner of a '94 Wrangler and I'm soon going to be getting $6,000. What I want to put on my Jeep is around 38" tires and independant suspension, but so far I have had no luck finding anything out about independant suspension. Any info will be greatly apreatiated." Every issue nets a question like yours. Please, please save your money. Invest it in a nice little mutual fund...invest it college, invest it in anything but your Jeep. Take some time to learn the basics of how and why your Jeep operates and performs the way it does before you start dropping money on tires that would completely destroy your Jeep (and that's assuming you could get enough lift under your Jeep to mount them in the first place). The modifications you are suggesting would not only make your nest egg look like a drop in the bucket, you'd end up with an undriveable lawn ornament that used to be a Jeep. Miscellaneous: "I have a 1990 jeep YJ, with a 4.2/5 speed. Can I engage to 4H at any speed or do I have to come to a complete stop and how about 4L?" You can shift to 4H at any speed. Shifting into low range is entirely different. You should be at a dead stop and have the transmission in neutral before engaging low range.
"I have a 1981 Scrambler, with a 258/4 speed. My daughter and I just bought for a song and a flash. It sat unmoved for several years. Everything is in great shape and starts right up, but everytime we let up on the throttle it dies, probably needs a carburetor. Should we just have same rebuilt, or is there another recommeded? We do wheel!!!!!" If I had a dime for every complaint about the Carter carburetor on the 258, I'd have a lot bigger garage with a lot more Jeeps in it. Rebuilt carburetors rarely solve the problem, mostly because they are rarely rebuilt correctly. My advice would be to stop the bleeding of your wallet before it starts and convert your 258 to fuel injection. Kits range from $650 (Holley) to $2000 (Mopar). The Holley kit would easily pay for itself not only in monetary terms, but in headaches after a few years. Besides, if you are wheeling your Jeep as you say, you know the limitations of a carburetor already. I'd suggest fixing both problems with one afternoon of wrenching. I just want to know who did the singing and who did the flashing....
"I have a 1995 Jeep Wrangler YJ, with a 4.0L
Standard. Grant, I'm running 35" tires on my Wrangler. I've removed the
stock spare and carrier. I'd like to add a quality spare tire carrier to my
vehicle that will carry a 35" tire and not ruin my tailgate, but am having a
difficult time locating one, especially that's not extremely expensive.
Would you please recommend a manufacturer or two that builds a quality spare
tire carrier for a 35" tire? By the way, on a previous question you
answered, I believe I figured out why my stock catalytic converter melted
down with only 70k miles. I used to use those octane boosters when I filled
up with gas. I was reading the labels of one and it said it may harm the
catalytic converter. I found one that specifically says it will not harm
catalytic converters. Do you believe those octaine boosters are worth
while? Your sight has proved extremely helpful to me. I hope everyone
that views it appreciates what you're doing." Quality never comes cheap. The best bumpers I have ever seen are from Bulletproof. I have them on my Scrambler and they live up to their name. If you aren't interested in the Bulletproof options, at least find one that is mounted directly to the frame or bumper. As you already know, the tailgate/body cannot support the weight of a fullsize spare. As for the octane boosters....save your money. The only time I could see actually needing an octane booster would be in a supercharged/turbocharged or extremely high compression engine. The only purpose of the octane booster is to prevent pre-ignition. I have found my 4.0L XJ needs at least 89 octane to prevent this, and I've never heard it ping on 92 octane. Any higher octane rating than that and you are blowing money out your exhaust pipe.
"I have a 1980 CJ7, with a Isuzu 2.38 DIESEL. I have
had it for about half my age (since 1983) and now its body is very badly rusted.
Living in Finland where CJ's are really rare birds it is very difficult to find any
help/info about how to keep this great thing running. So I would really appreciate if you
could give me a couple of very badly needed hints: 1) Who manufactures spare bodies -
originals or replicas? Is it a good idea to try to swap to fiberglass in stead of a
steel one? Can it be done and can steel and fiberglass be mixed e.g. my old hood and
grill are still ok. And how do my steel doors fit? (I have a hard fiberglass top+
steel doors to go with it and a soft top for summer use) Price categories for different
solutions? I guess buying from the east coast might be cheaper due to shipment costs??
2) I have to pay very heavy taxes for having a diesel engine here in Finland. So do you
think it would be reasonably easy to swap the Isuzu with manual transmission (probably
original export model) into a 4.0 L model '95 with automatic transmission, all goodies
like "chips" and so forth would also be available from the same source. Please
help me out!! " Personally I wish the diesel had been an option in the United States, unfortunately it was only available in the export models. If you want to swap it, swap it. The 4.0L would be a relatively simple swap, your greatest headache would be caused by the wiring. Factory manuals for the donor year model engine/transmission would greatly simplify this and are readily available. As far as the body, the easiest solution is a steel replica body tub. While the new one is off, you could take measures to increase it's resistance to rust. Fiberglass and steel should not be mixed. I personally prefer the steel bodies over fiberglass anyway, but this is largely due to personal preference.
"I have a 1997 TJ, with a 4.0. I have soft windows with zipppers. The zipper on the driver's side has come un-done and the window will not zip up any longer for both zippers on this window. Is there a way to fix the zipper to enable the window to close completely?" I had the same problem on my old YJ. Take the upper soft doors off and haul them to a upholstery or awning shop. I had a heavy duty zipper placed in mine for 15 dollars that lasted 3 times longer than the stock one, and still worked great when I sold it.
"I have a 1980 CJ5, with a straigt 6/STANDARD. Is it possible to get a hardtop for my 1980 CJ5?" You bet. Here are two of the tons of sources out there. Turner 4wd (www.thejeep.com) or Leon Rosser Jeep (www.thinkjeep.com)
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