I had the opportunity to discuss this with a Chrysler engineer. Chrysler was trying to eliminate as much weight as possible from the engine block and removed a lot of material from it. This made the engine very noisy. Complaints about this led to Chrysler reversing their decision and adding more iron to the block for the release of the WJ, which runs dead quiet. There is nothing wrong with your engine, just look at the noise as a weight and money savings for your Jeep.

"I have a 2000 Jeep Wrangler Sport, with a 4.0/5sp.. I stuck my Jeep in water up to the top of the tires. I had to leave it over night. About two weeks after I got it out, a high pitch noise starting coming from under the Jeep. I took in to the dealer, they charged me $100 to spray lubricant on all my U-joints. I have not had it off road since, and the noise is back. I've tried to isolate where the noise is coming from and have been unsuccessfull. I sprayed more lubricant on the U-joints, the noise is sill there. Do you have any idea as to what is causing the noise? Jeep assured me it is not damaging the vehicle. It is loud and disturbing. Thanks for any input."

First, don't ever take your Jeep back to the same dealer. Spraying "lubricant" on the U-joints is a ridiculous solution to your problem. Whenever your vehicle has been submerged in water that deep for an extended time, ALL of the fluids must be changed to remove the water contamination. Have your engine oil, transmission, transfer case, and both axles drained and refilled. Then replace both U-joints in the rear drive shaft. If the noise is still there, the damage is done. Take your Jeep to another shop to isolate the noise and properly diagnose the problem.

"I have a 1996 zj, with a 4.0 / auto. As usual (I think), my Grand Cherokee 4x4 has an open rear end. I want posi! This vehicle is mainly driven on the street. I'm not a serious off roader, but in the mud I really like to slide (and not get stuck) and an open rear end just doesn't cut it! What is the cheapest, best remedy? Is limited slip the way to go? If so where do I get something like that? In all the 4x mags they advertise "lockers", is this the same as limited slip? Is a "locker" suitable for a lot of street driving? Are there factory limited slip rear ends that I can possible pick up used and swap into my ZJ? I would like to spend less then $300 - $400...Please help."

You are not going to get there for 300-400 dollars. The best remedy for street/trail driving on the XJ/ZJ is the Detroit Truetrac limited slip. This is a gear driven limited slip that doesn't require any special lubricants and has no clutches to wear out. I have it in the front axle of my XJ and it works amazingly well. The Detroit Locker is an even better traction device, but it can be extremely noisy when engaging/disengaging. The noise is amplified in the XJ and ZJ due to the unibody construction. If you don't want to hear a lot of bangs and thuds, stick with a limited slip like the Truetrac.

The difference between a limited slip and a locker can be summed up fairly easily. A limited slip tries to distribute torque evenly to each wheel on an axle. How well it accomplishes this depends on the manufacturer of the limited slip and it's condition (again, I strongly recommend the Truetrac). The Locker will distribute power equally to both wheels in a low traction condition, period.

"I have a 1999 Jeep TJ, with a 4.0L/Auto. I want to replace the Dana 35C with a beefier rear end. Is there a Dana 60 out of an older vehicle, that is the same width with the diff in the right location, that you would recommend as a good starting point for a replacement?"

If there was, I promise you would have heard about it long ago. Short of finding a Dana 44 out of a TJ as a factory option at a junkyard, there are no bolt in axle swaps. I'd suggest contacting Dynatrac www.dynatrac.com for axle upgrades.

--> "I have a 1982 CJ5, with a Chevy 350/T5 5 speed. I have a 1982 CJ5 with a high HP 350 Chevy, I was running it to a T-5 stock tranny which was promptly destroyed (too weak for 350). I am currently looking at a T-176 four-speed as a replacment. I was wondering what modifications if any need to be made? I have a DANA 300 transfer case which should bolt up to the T-176 (do I need an adapter?), and I have a 350 Chevy - T5 bellhousing, will this work for the T-176 as well? I have read that the T-176 is much stronger then the T-5 and will suit my application, is this correct? Basically I am wondering what needs to be done for this modification, or is there a better choice for a tranny?"

A T176 would be a fairly inexpensive way to resolve your T5 blues. The T-176 was the best of the 80's CJ trannies in terms of strength. That's not to say it's bulletproof. It would likely live a reasonably long life behind a HP 350, but if you are already swapping trannies you may want to consider something from the 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck variety. The T176 will bolt directly to the Dana 300, but you will need a new bellhousing from Advance Adapters and a new clutch to mate it to the 350. Whether you go with the T176 or a truck 4 speed, you'll need new driveshafts. The T176 is much shorter than the T5.

"I have a 1991 Jeep Wrangler, with a 4.0/5-speed. I shift my Jeep into 4 wheel drive it feels like it locks in. But when I am driving in seems like it pops in and out of 4 wheel drive. It makes kind of a clunking sound. It almost seems like it isn't engaging all the way into 4 wheel drive, and it seems to do it more when there is a load on the drive train, such as a hill. I have tried to adjust the shift linkage, and I couldn't get it to move. Nobody around here has been able to give me any ideas. I was hoping you could give me some, thanks."

Have you installed a body lift or a suspension lift (and lowered the transfer case)? If you have, the linkage will have to be adjusted. You may want to purchase a factory service manual for the appropriate steps.

"I have a 1998 Jeep Wrangler TJ, with a 4.0L/Auto. I am interested in adding front and rear traction improvement devices (i.e.: Detroit EZ-locker or Gearless locker). My question is will the use of these devices allow me to utilize 4WD mode of the vehicle on dry pavement and not have to worry while driving around turns?"

You shouldn't be using 4WD on dry pavement, period. Ever taken a sharp turn on dry pavement in 4wd and felt the lurching of the vehicle and the jerking of the steering wheel? This is not good. Your 4wd system was never intended to be used on dry pavement, only on loose or slippery surfaces. Installing a locker in one or more axles will have some effect on dry pavement driving, but it is minimal and easily lived with. Regardless whether you install lockers or not, leave the transfer case in 2wd until you hit the dirt.

"I have a 1995 Jeep YJ, with a 2.5 4-cyl/5-spd. While out 4-wheeling I noticed that when making a turn, and when front tires had traction and rear didn't, that I would hear a loud "pop" in the front end. This same noise then turned into a ratcheting sound and front tires stopped turning. This wouldn't happen while in reverse. Now 4-wheel-drive doesn't work at all. The drive shaft is turning. I still have the auto hubs, could one be blown, and how do I find out which one? I am avoiding going to the local dealership for cost and modification criticism reasons. The gears are stock 4.11/4.10, and I'm running 33x12.50 BFG Mud Terrains, so there is extra stress. (No, I don't use 5th gear.) If it is a hub, is this a weekend shadetree mechanic job, and other than Chrysler where can I find the needed parts?"

You don't actually have automatic hubs. The front axle is engaged all of the time. Earlier models had a vacuum engaged slider that would actually connect an inner and outer axle shaft to engage 4WD. This would rule out the typical hub snapping. You can check the front driveshaft for the possibility of the splines having been stripped in it, but more likely it is a broken axle shaft. As you already know the dealership is going to kill you financially to fix the damage. My advice would be to make sure the ring/pinion and spider gears are all ok, then purchase the warn front hub conversion kit. It's about 800 bucks, but that's probably what the dealer would charge you anyway. The Warn kit could be easily installed by a shadetree mechanic.

"I have a 1995 Jeep YJ, with a 4.0/5 speed. With a 4-inch suspension lift and a 2-inch lowering kit on my YJ's transfer case. The YJ does not shift very easy. The Jeep actually shifts pretty rough, is this hard on the gears? If I was to install a CV joint on my YJ, would I be able to raise my transfer case back up to its stock height so it would shift easier? Or, do I need to keep the lowering kit on the transfer case? Which way would have the least stress on the tranfer case and not be hard on the gears. Also, are CV joints hard on the axle or the transfer case?"

Absolutely install a CV style driveshaft with a short shaft kit on the transfer case. It's expensive but it will solve all of your problems. You will be able to raise your transfer case back up to it's original position with a CV style shaft. This will improve ground clearance, and most likely solve the problem of difficult shifting. I suspect your shifter is coming in contact with the body since it has been lowered two inches; raising the transfer case and placing the shifter back in it's stock location will solve the problem....assuming there are no internal problems in your stock tranny. Adding a CV style driveshaft will not place any extra stress on the transfer case, transmission, or axles. Their job is still the same no matter what style driveshaft you are using.

"I have a 1993 YJ, with a 4.0 5 speed. I was all ready to have an ARB Locker installed in my rear Dana 35 axle when I was told that Dana 35's are not very good and that installing an ARB would be a waste of time. Ouch - Do I really need a Dana 44?

I run 31" tires and am only on trails rated 3-1/2 when I go to Moab. Any advice?"

Install the ARB in your Dana 35. Yes, a Dana 44 would be nice and more durable than your 35. For your application, I'd consider the investment to be overkill.

"I have a 1986 cherokee, with a 2.8 auto. I was planing to upgrade my 2.8 for more power with some Edelbrock parts. What is the modification to get the most power. I am open for any ideas."

The Edelbrock cam and manifold will produce a significant increase in power over stock. Your Jeep still may not be a rocket, but I'd guess you'll be happy with the results. You might want to pick up a GM Performance Parts book, they have quite a few options for building up your 2.8. For an even wilder/less streetable cam, check out the offerings from Competition Cams.

"I have a 1979 CJ5, with a 304/T-150. I need help quick! I am attempting to install Dana 44's front and rear out of a '79 Cherokee but the rear pumpkin is offcenter. Can this work or can I acquire different axle housings? I'd love for you to email me directly because I have plans of being at Tellico in less than 2 weeks."

You will need to take your axles to a shop to have new tubes installed in the differential in order to center it. You will also need to have custom length axle shafts built at the same time.

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