Virtually every old Jeep 4x4 can be sold for a significant amount after a good restoration, but after you've restored it, why sell it?

These trucks were geared so low that 31" tires will not be a problem.

You're on the right track so far. The K&N filter would be a good upgrade even if it didn't improve airflow. The fact that it's reusable and traps more dirt than paper filters makes it a must have for any 4x4. As for the spark plugs, it's probably more important that they are replaced regularly and the gap set properly than what brand you use. You might consider replacing your stock exhaust with a complete cat back system rather than just replacing the muffler. I like Borla's exhaust systems since they are 100% stainless steel, they'll never rust and shouldn't ever have to be replaced.

Keeping your ignition system in good shape will ensure good mileage as well. Replace the ignition cap and rotor with quality replacement parts every time you replace the plugs. Replace the wires every other time. Be sure to keep up with all the factory recommended service intervals to keep everything running in fresh lube. Low tire pressure can rob you from a couple mpg as well at freeway speeds, check for proper pressure before trips. Even driving on the freeway with your windows down can reduce mileage.

Check out Tomken Machine (http://www.tomken.com) for your tire carrier.

I've got good news and bad news. I can probably get you a couple more mpg in the city and highway, but it's going to cost you about a grand. Doesn't look like such a sweet deal from that standpoint does it? You didn't mention what axle ratio you currently have, but I'll bet they weren't changed to compensate the larger tire. One revolution of your 33" tire will probably take you 10 to 15 percent greater distance than one revolution of the stock tires. Not only does this throw off your speedometer accordingly, but your engine will be turning too slow at highway speeds. If you're not turning about 2500 rpm at 70 mph (actual, not what's indicated on the speedometer) then you should be swapping to lower (numerically higher) axle gears. That's where the grand comes in, gear ratio swaps aren't cheap. It's not a good deal when measured from a mpg perspective, but the gains in off road ability and perceived power improvements justify the means. Even with a gear swap you'll probably never beat 16 mpg, Jeeps are boxes and at freeway speeds aerodynamics play a huge part in determining mileage. Lifting your Jeep made it an even bigger box, but like you said, if you have to bring it back to stock to gain mileage, you might as well sell it.

If it's the factory alarm there is probably a fuse in the fuse panel specifically for the alarm. Remove the fuse and the alarm is dead. If it's an aftermarket alarm, the unit could be mounted virtually anywhere, but usually it's under the dash on the drivers side. Again, if you can find the wire with the in line fuse in it, you can remove the fuse and disable the system. Some aftermarket alarms will have a backup battery source so that the alarm will sound even after the wire has been cut (or the fuse removed), if removing the fuse doesn't shut it off, you'll have to disable the backup battery too.

I haven't heard of any chronic oil pump problems with any newer Jeeps. If an oil change with the manufacturers specified weight and a quality oil filter result in the same low pressure under the same conditions, I'd strongly suggest returning your TJ back to the dealer for warranty service.

Your best bet would likely be an upgrade to an electronic distributor. In my experience, they don't get nearly as upset as the points type when wet.

If you have any insight into what this problem might be, please write me back, as I would like to get it fixed before the "rainy season" starts (I'd like to be able to stop!)."

Does the pedal sink to the floor during braking? If so, you're losing hydraulic pressure somewhere. If you have power brakes and the pedal is just hard to depress, check your booster and vacuum line. If it's a hydraulic pressure loss, it could happen in several places. It could be within the master cylinder itself, possibly one of the brake lines or their connections, a kinked hard line, dirt in the system, or it could be any of the wheel cylinders (make sure they are dry). A soft pedal could also indicate improper adjustment on the brake shoes. Adjust the shoes out as close to the drums as possible without rubbing. Also, since these brakes are self adjusting after the initial installation, be sure that you don't have the adjustment bolts switched between the right and left sides. If they are switched, this will result in a gradual but total loss of brakes.

Where did the Dana 44 come from? If it came from another CJ5, get the cables that go with the 44. Or, if the 20 and 44 backplates appear to be interchangeable, go for it. If those two fail, Currie enterprises (www.currieenterprises.com) can put you in contact with a company who can custom make parking brake cables.

They are nowhere near the east coast, but Mountain Off Road Enterprises (M.O.R.E.) has a bolt in cage kit for YJ's. They are located in Rifle, CO, and can be reached at 970-625-0500.

Some of the strengths of the CJ-7 would include it's outstanding off road ability even in stock form, as well as huge aftermarket support for replacement pieces and upgrade items. Some of the more common problems with late CJ-7's would include rear axleshaft failure, weak transmissions, and problems with the stock carburetor. None of these problems are too terribly difficult or expensive to fix.

The best way to make a decision is to compare the specifications of each winch. Fortunately, neither Warn or Ramsey are shy about publishing technical specs. All the information you need to make an educated purchase is on the internet. Check out these two sites and judge for yourself. http://www.warn.com/html/rvwinch/xd9000.htm and http://www.ramsey.com/plus9000.htm

Airing down tires is a must for deep, dry sand. Not only does this greatly increase traction, it does wonders to eliminate axle "hop" or "wrap". Generally 10-15 psi is enough to do the trick on smaller, stock size tires; larger tires can go as low as 5 psi.

Once air is let out of your tires, there isn't any way to inflate them without the use of a compressor. These compressors can range from the $20 cigarette lighter powered auto parts store specials to $300 compressors capable of running air tools (if you have an air storage tank). Obviously the more expensive units will inflate your tires much faster.

The best way to tow any vehicle is on a trailer specifically designed for this use. The biggest benefit is the elimination of any wear to your Jeep. This also simplifies brake and turn signal light hookups. Another benefit of the trailer is that it can be easily maneuvered if the need arises to put the motorhome in reverse. It is almost impossible to use reverse when a Jeep is connected by a standard towbar. The downside of using a trailer is the added weight that you'll be pulling, and the added cost of purchasing the trailer. If you choose to flat tow the Jeep using a standard tow bar, according to the factory info that I have, place the transfer case in Neutral, transmission in gear (if you get an automatic, put it in park) and turn the ignition switch so that the steering wheel is unlocked. No type of driveline disconnect will be necessary.

All of the short wheelbase Jeeps make great trail vehicles. Which model you buy would depend on how much restoration work you're willing to do and whether or not you intend to drive this Jeep daily. There's only a couple glaring weaknesses in stock Jeeps. Most of the '80's CJ's had AMC Model 20 rear ends with failure prone (that's putting it kindly) two piece axleshafts. These are easily swapped for reliable aftermarket one piece shafts for a little over $300.

The other problems are related to transmissions. Again, a lot of '80's CJ's had Borg Warner SR4/T4/T5 trannies. They generally held up with a 4 cyl, but they're marginal with a 6 cyl engine. Another bad idea was using a Peugeot 5 speed in early model 6 cyl Wranglers, I've seen these go out in as little as 45,000 miles.

Probably the best CJ built for power and durability (I'm going to catch hell for this one) was a late 70's CJ7 with a 304 V8, T18 four speed, and Dana 44 rear end, all stout stuff. If I was going to buy another one...

Try installing an adjustable brake proportioning valve. It's fairly easy to plumb into your brake lines and will allow you to properly set the front/rear bias. If you can't find one locally, try Summit Racing (www.summitracing.com), they sell them for around 40 bucks.

As winter temperatures can get to -30 degrees in Canada, could the cooler reduce the transmission fluid temperature too low, below its designed operating range?"

The transmission will take longer to warm up with the cooler installed, and the transmission will run a little cooler at high speeds, but I don't think you need to have any concern of over cooling the transmission. The only suggestion I have would be to use a synthetic ATF due to the extreme cold, it shouldn't thicken as much as regular ATF at 30 below.

For less than two grand, you probably aren't going to be able to buy a CJ-7 that runs, or at least one that runs well. If you're wanting to replace the stock engine anyway, this may or may not be a concern. Just don't expect a peach for that price.

Parts availability is still very good for older Jeeps, our sponsor has everything you might need.

You have a Dana Model 18 transfer case, used in nearly all early Jeeps. You might want to order a parts catalog for your Jeep from Turner 4WD Parts.

For your swaybar disconnects, JKS seems to be a very popular brand. It's not really important which brand you use, just as long as you can defeat the swaybar off road.

The Tru-Trac, Power-Lok, and Trac-Lok, are just trade names for what essentially are just limited slip units. The Detroit, EZ Locker, and Lock Right are all true lockers. The Detroit probably has an edge on strength, but it, like all the limited slip units, requires professional installation. The EZ locker and Lock Right are all do it yourself in an afternoon jobs since you do not have to disturb the ring and pinion gears.

Swapping to 4.56 gears will help overall reduction some, but probably not as much as you want. With your current setup (3.93 1st gear X 2.72 low X 4.10 axles) you have a total gear reduction of 43.8:1. With 4.56 gears in the axles the reduction will be 48.7:1. If you want to get lower than that, consider the 4:1 low range gear swap. Using 4.56 gears and the stock transmission, this setup would yield a 71.7 total reduction. Not only is this a huge improvement in gear reduction, the 4:1 gears have no effect on daily driving whatsoever.

For a mild suspension lift on your wrangler, I'm partial to the 2.5" Rancho kit. The kit truly comes with everything you need to do it right, and the ride is smoother than stock.

Replacing the stock steering stabilizer with an aftermarket unit probably won't help much, unless the OEM unit is worn out.

Also, is there a place that I could get information about the feasibility of putting a V8 into my Wrangler, or don't you recommend it?"

I don't know of any product specifically designed to prevent scratches from the hardtop rubbing on the body. You might try cutting some flat rubber weatherstripping to length and place it between the top and body. I've never tried it, but it looks like the aftermarket threshold guards used at the bottom of the door openings have the same bends to match the top of the body tub, they'd certainly stop paint scratches on the body.

If you want a V8 in your Wrangler, go for it. The swap is expensive, the cost of the engine, adapters, and possibly a different ransmission, can easily exceed $3000 without any labor charges. Also, be sure to check local emissions laws to make sure your Jeep will be legal afterwards. Contact Advance Adapters (www.advanceadapters.com) for a catalog.

BTW I have changed to a Synthic oil for the tranny and it doesn't help either."

Driving in either deep snow or especially sand is really going to heat up your transmission and raise your exhaust temperature (the exhaust pipe is under the passenger side of the console), enough to feel it through the transmission hump. The fact that you're in 4wd is probably coincidental.

Yank 'em, particularly if you're using aftermarket springs.

The incline portion of the ramp should be 14' long, rising to a height of 58".

Your engine is the 258 ci and your transfer case is probably a Dana 20 (assuming you don't have Quadra-Trac). I'd need more information to identify your transmission, auto, manual, 3 or 4 speed. The carburetor is probably a Carter single barrel.

Engines, transmissions (there were several different models, not all can be easily interchanged), and transfer cases could all be swapped out with other 70's CJ5's or CJ7's. Starting in the 80's, Jeep began to use some less-than-wonderful transmissions and rear axleshafts as well as a different transfer case. Consider yourself fortunate to own an early model.

Tomken Machine (www.tomken.com) has a spare tire carrier for the TJ that will accommodate up to a 35" tire.

Your Jeep is not going to make a great tow vehicle, if the nearest lake is only a couple miles away, then it's not going to be a problem. If you need to tow the boat long distances, you might want to consider using another vehicle. If you do use your Jeep for towing, be sure to install an automatic transmission cooler (if it's not already equipped with one) to keep your tranny happy.

Four Wheel Parts Wholesalers is more than happy to handle export shipments.

Send them a fax at (310) 329-2975 with your request. They also have a web site you can check out, http://www.4wheelparts.com/4wheel

Thanks in advance."

If General Grabbers were half the cost of BFG's here in the US, I'd buy the Generals too. If you want to install a larger than stock tire, keep in mind it will throw off your speedometer accordingly. If ground clearance isn't as much a factor for you as tread design, you may want to stick with the stock size.

I'm thinking about maybe putting a Chevy 305 in it..."

Consider using an AMC engine instead of the Chevy. The AMC could be bolted in without the use of any expensive adapters. As for the J series trucks, they're plenty stout, and good buys.

I've had real good results with Simple Green and a soft nylon brush (like one you'd use to clean the dishes).

I've never had any problems with the stock heater, it's always kept me warm. If yours isn't blowing hot enough air then the thermostat in your engine is likely stuck open and not allowing the engine to completely warm up. As for the defroster, make sure the duct that leads up to the defroster vents (it's right behind the radio) isn't torn or become disconnected.

The easiest solution is to make a solid bracket to tie down a couple 5 gallon gas cans for those long stretches between gas stations; most of the time you probably won't need them. You could have a tank custom made to either fit behind the rear seat or underneath the floor behind the rear axle, just supply a shop with the dimensions and they'll gladly weld one for you.

Is there anyone out there that could help me find where I could get parts for this Jeep?"

There are literally tons of places to find parts for older Jeeps. Our sponsor, Turner 4WD Parts, carries parts for Jeeps back to 1941, they would be a good place to start.

The best advice I could give would be to buy the factory manual for your Jeep. It will contain diagrams of the specific emissions components that were on your Jeep and how they are plumbed/wired. The exhaust manifold shouldn't be too difficult to locate, contact our sponsor or any of the other specialty Jeep parts companies.

I don't see why not, but be very careful not to ruin the integrity of the mount when you move the seat. It wouldn't be pretty for the seat to tear out of the floor if you had an accident.

The best way to get a 4WD Cherokee is to sell yours and buy one. I'm not saying the conversion couldn't be done, but it would be a whole lot cheaper to replace your Cherokee than it would be to buy the parts for the conversion, and you could skip the tremendous amount of labor involved.

I would appreciate any feedback you could provide."

I don't think there is any significant difference between factory and aftermarket soft tops, they're both nearly identical in design. Compare the price your dealer is quoting with the cost of aftermarket tops and pick your top based on price.

Check out our sponsor, Turner 4WD Parts. They carry service manuals for your Cherokee.

http://www.thejeep.com/manual.html

I haven't heard anyone complaining of this problem on the ZJ yet, and could only guess as to the dozen or so things that could be causing the slop.

However, you are taking the right approach to fixing the problem. Take it to a Jeep dealer, tell them the other dealer couldn't fix it and complain loudly! If you get the service managers attention than it will get fixed. Whatever you do, don't let them tell you that much slop is normal. Also, absolutely do not install the lift until the steering is fixed. The dealer will blame the slop on the lift. Good luck.

There's no need to remove the top and I've never heard of one cracking in even the most severe off road conditions.

Don't expect any huge performance improvements in a new "cat back" exhaust. You'd probably do just as well at your local muffler shop, but you'll need to ask a few questions first. Be sure they use "aluminized" pipe, this prevents rust. Make sure they do not use a pipe diameter smaller than stock, smaller pipe is a lot cheaper for the shop to buy. You may also want to bring your own muffler to them if there was a specific brand you wanted to use.

Don't completely rule out the aftermarket exhaust systems, most of them are pretty good. The downside is that you have to install them yourself and they may still be more expensive than your local shop.

Since sand dunes favor horsepower you will obviously need to swap your engine. It's hard to beat the small block Chevy for the most bang for the buck. I would suggest 4.10 or 4.56 gears depending on whether your CJ will ever see any interstates. Keep the suspension soft and the lift to a minimum, add some fat all terrain or maybe a set of paddle tires and you'll have a dune runner to contend with.

I would appreciate it if you could give me some advice."

Jeep has made several odd versions of their vehicles for export only, such as diesel CJ's and apparently long wheelbase wranglers.

I am not familiar with any, but I believe there are companies that specialize in importing cars and making them street legal in the US. I would not have any work done on it in Venezuela as they will not be familiar with California emission requirements.

If you were given the vehicle then I would say it's worth the cost and inevitable hassle of importing it - I'd love to have it myself.

Knocks, thuds, rattles, and pops are hard enough to diagnose on your own vehicle much less over the internet. The only thing I can think of that you haven't mentioned would be the control arm bushings. It might be easier to get a friend to rock the Jeep back and forth or up and down to try and recreate the noise while you try to pinpoint it, good luck.

I must admit it's been some time since I've seen a MASH rerun, but it seems to me the ambulance in question was a Dodge Power Wagon and not a Jeep. The Power Wagon was made in numerous versions and all are becoming scarce. What few are left are cherished by their owners as very capable 4x4 collectibles.

Leon Rosser Jeep (800)633-4724 carries restoration parts including decals for Jeeps back to '42. They'll likely have what you're looking for.

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